THE BOROBUDUR TEMPLE (A UNESCO World Heritage Site)
27 March 2013. Magelang, Central Java, Indonesia.
”The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” —Saint Augustine
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| Entrance to the Temple |
One of the best ways for me to relax and unwind is to travel!
In the past two years, I had always been busy climbing mountains with friends in the Philippines and abroad and enjoyed magnificent landscapes from above. On top of that experience was the joy of experiencing the peace and serenity atop the mountains.
This year, I thought of traveling with a primary objective of exploring the World Heritage Sites in Asia. In the Philippines, we have 8 World Heritage Sites and most are "Cultural" in nature.
It's been my dream to see the Borobudur Temple of Indonesia since I was a Grade 2 student. Since then, I always enjoyed looking at the statue of Lord Buddha and the Stupa at Borobudur from the "Children's Book of Question and Answer".
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| Massive Borobudur Temple |
That dream had finally turned into reality.
It was a long holiday in the Philippines in observance of the Holy Week and I took that opportunity to unwind.
I traveled to Indonesia with two things in mind. One was to explore volcano craters and lava trails nearby the city that does not require major hike and two, was to see ancient temples one of which was the majestic Borobudur temple.
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| Lord Buddha Stupa |
I took a four-hour flight from Manila to Jakarta and then another 1 hour flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, the place nearest Borobudur temple, Mt. Merapi Lava trail and the Sikidang Crater.
I arrived early at the airport of Yogyakarta. I asked a friend that I met when I explored Gunung Tangkuban Parahu crater in Jakarta to assist me in moving around Yogyakarta and nearby cities and places.
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| Statue of Lord Buddha inside a Stupa |
My first itinerary for the day was to explore Borobudur temple. We drove from the airport to Magelang about 40 kilometers northwest of Yogyakarta to see the ancient temple. In Indonesia, they call ancient temples and structures as "Candi". Hence, Candi Borobudur.
I was so excited to see the temple for the first time in reality. After securing a ticket at the main entrance gate, I immediately started my adventure at Borobudur park complex. The park is wider than Luneta and from afar, I already saw the central door and the stairway leading to the top of temple.
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| Stone Panel |
The temple was constructed at the slope of a mountain so that it is on an inclined plain. As I draw nearer, the scale and grandeur of the temple amazed me so much.
It's simply awesome!
I was wearing a "Sarung" to show respect to the place as it is a Holy and Sacred place of the Buddhist. This is required for everyone who go up the temple.
At the main entrance, I saw a picture from UNESCO showing the details of the restoration that was done to make Borobudur temple intact once again.
Thanks to UNESCO and the Government of Indonesia for restoring the Borobudur temple.
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| Temple Hallway |
Before the restoration, the Stupa and the Buddha statue inside were scattered all over the place. Some of the Buddha statues were "headless". Locals believed that when the temple was abandoned the Buddha heads must have been cut and sold to antique collectors.
The old pictures at the site showed the walls and reliefs had almost collapsed. According to Wikipedia, following the major 1973 renovation funded by UNESCO, Borobudur is once again used as a place of worship and pilgrimage. Once a year, during the full moon in May or June, Buddhists in Indonesia observe Vesak (Indonesian: Waisak) day commemorating the birth, death, and the time when Siddhartha Gautama attained the highest wisdom to become the Buddha Shakyamuni. Vesak (or Waisak) is an official national holiday in Indonesia and the ceremony is centered at the three Buddhist temples by walking from Mendut to Pawon and ending at Borobudur.
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| Overlooking the Entrance Gate and Surrounding Landscape |
Details of the temple according to Wikipedia, Borobudur, or Barabudur, is a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist Temple in Magelang, Central Java, Indonesia. The monument consists of six square platforms topped by three circular platforms, and is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues. A main dome, located at the center of the top platform, is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues seated inside a perforated stupa.
I felt so very lucky to see Borobudur with my naked eyes and touch it with my bare hands. I love the Stupa and Buddha statue inside so very much that after exploring the temple, I went to a nearby stone artisan and bought a small miniature Stupa as a souvenir.
So far, all of the UNESCO World Heritage sites that I had seen never failed to amaze me.
As I exited from the Borobudur park, I appreciated more the values of the World Heritage Sites that we have in the Philippines and that we should treasure, preserve and protect them at all cost.
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28 March 2013. Prambanan, Central Java, Indonesia.
“Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.” — Ralph Waldo Emerson
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| Entrance to Candi Prambanan |
After enjoying the grandeur of the Buddhist temple BOROBUDUR, from my home base at Yogyakarta, we drive to the east of the city to see another ancient temple called PRAMBANAN.
If the Northwest Central Java has Borobudur, the answer of the Northeast is Prambanan.
Prambanan is a Hindu Temple also built in the 9th Century according to experts. According to Wikipedia, Candi Prambanan or Candi Rara Jonggrang is a 9th-century Hindu temple compound in Central Java, Indonesia, dedicated to the Trimurti, the expression of God as the Creator (Brahma), the Preserver (Vishnu) and the Destroyer (Shiva).
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| Candi Prambanan Temple Complex |
The temple compound, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the largest Hindu temple site in Indonesia, and one of the biggest in Southeast Asia. It is characterized by its tall and pointed architecture, typical of Hindu temple architecture, and by the towering 47-metre-high (154 ft) central building inside a large complex of individual temples.
After entering the gate of the Prambanan Park complex, I walked at the center alley with full admiration of the grandeur of this Exotic Hindu Temple. Others said that this is the most beautiful Hindu Temple in the world.
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| Temple of the God Shiva |
Something that I immediately noticed while walking at the center alley was the similarity of the design of the Prambanan Temples with the Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Both are Hindu Temples and their towers are pointed with lots of stone carvings on it (like a pineapple).
The big difference though is the absence of the moat surrounding the temple.
As I approached the gate of the temples, I was completely speechless with full admiration on the grandeur of the temples. Though the temples are smaller in size than Borobudur, the temple design is entirely unique. There are three main temples dedicated to Hindu Gods - Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva with the Central largest temple dedicated to Shiva, the destroyer.
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| Landscape surrounding the temple complex |
I went inside each temple and there I got amazed with statue of Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Durga and others. Just like Borobudur, Prambanan was also abandoned and left in ruins until it was rediscovered in the early 19th Century during the British invasion, this according to Wikipedia.
Outside the complex were tons of stones from smaller temples that used to surround the three main temples. They are awaiting to be rebuilt. According to the locals, construction of the smaller temples surrounding the three main temples is near.
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| Intricate design of the stone temple |
I would definitely love to see the grandeur of the Prambanan Temples when all the temples were restored. No doubt, it will be superb.
While moving around the temple complex, I saw a theater stage not too far away from the complex. According to the authorities at Prambanan, that is the site of "Ramayana" play (Life of Rama and Sita) with the Prambanan temples as background at night lit with warm daylight.
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| Statue of the God Brahma |
Looking at the ruins, I know that the Government of Indonesia and UNESCO did an excellent job in restoring the magnificent temples in full details. On top of them all, the one thing that amazed me the most was the architectural and engineering skills of the ancient people who built these monuments. Thinking that a thousand years ago, there were no tools yet available just like the tools that we have now that the ancient people could have probably used to bring the stones down from the mountain, cut the stones into a perfect inter-locking blocks and then design them with stone carvings of intricate details.
I just told myself, the ancient engineers and architects of the Prambanan and Borobudur temples could be more skilled than us today by far. I think the Hindu Temples of Prambanan caught my attention more than Borobudur because of the details of the stone carvings, the temple design, their sizes and shape. This does not mean that Borobudur is less. They are both magnificent and awesome.
Truly, Prambanan and Borobudur are two landmarks of the world. They are so important that they are considered to be a patrimony of the entire world. A heritage of all mankind.
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Indonesian Old Art of "BATIKING"
29 March 2013. Kota Yogyakarta.
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| Manual Batiking |
Batiking is a very old art form from Indonesia. It consists of wax painting and dying a fabric in order to create beautiful and lasting designs that can be worn, hung on the wall, or used as pillowcases and sheets.
I learned that there are two ways of making Batik. One is through Stamping and two is the long manual process. Normally, the stamping way of Batiking is done by men because according to the locals, it requires a lot of strength to press the wax and dye on the fabric. On the other hand, the manual process is being carried out by women. Instead of strength, it requires a lot of patience since it involves a lot of dying and waxing process. Aside from that, the manual process also requires creativity since the design sometimes is manually done direct on the fabric using a hot dye/ink on a nozzle.
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| Stamping |
I admired the skill of the workers in making Batik. They used either a special stamp about less than 1x1 ft. in size made of bronze and of different interesting designs or a tiny nozzle-like device with a hot dye or ink in it and manually design an abstract or follow a prepared drawn pattern on the white fabric.
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| Ink from a tree |
I was told that the dye/ink that they are using came from a tree. The dye/ink is hot when they apply on the fabric to make sure that it will not fade easily.
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| Stamper |
I remembered the Inabel of Ilocos and the Tinalak of Mindanao while watching the Batik making process. Our Inabel and Tinalak also require a lot of patience and creativity in making them.
From the wikiHow there are 10 steps on how to Batik:
1. Select the cloth you wish to use (silk, muslin, or cotton work best) and wash the cloth to remove any residues. Dry and iron the cloth.
2. Decide on your design and trace it onto the fabric with a pencil. Alternatively, you can freehand something or make an abstract design, it is up to you.
3. Place wax paper underneath the fabric so the fabric will not stick to the surface you are working on. Decide what colour dye you first want to use and then wax off all the parts that you do not want to be that color.
4. After all parts are waxed that you do not want dyed you should allow the wax to dry on the fabric, you can speed up this process in the freezer.
5. After the wax has dried, you can create the "crackle" effect on the fabric by balling up the fabric to create cracks in the wax. Those sections will have veins of the colour in them that would otherwise have not been there.
6. Make your dye bath in a pot or bowl according to the directions of your dye. Put the fabric in the dye bath for approximately 30 minutes - this also depends on the directions for your dye as well as how deeply you wish for the the fabric to be dyed.
7. Allow the fabric to dry.
8. Begin ironing off the wax in small sections, using the newsprint underneath the fabric and also above between the fabric and iron. Only iron the wax off of sections you wish to dye next.
9. Wax the sections that you previo
usly dyed if you do not wish for them to be dyed another colour.
10. Repeat this process until your batik is finished.
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The SULTAN Residence, Kota Yogyakarta
29 March 2013. The Palace, Kota Yogyakarta.
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| Entrance Gate |
On my second day at Yogyakarta after getting completely amazed by the Borobudur temple, I visited the residence of the Sultan. The incumbent Sultan is Hamengkubuwono X who ascended into the Thrown of Sultan after the death of his father, the former Yogyakarta Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX.
My primary purpose of visiting the place was to see the palaces.
I registered at the gate and then I was guided by one of the palace guide or maybe care taker as I explored inside the compound.
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| Cultural Hall |
The first thing that I noticed inside was the grand palace. They are old made of hard wood. My guide told me that the buildings are about 200 years old. There are several grand palaces dedicated for different occasions. There is one for cultural dance presentation, another palace is dedicated for opera, cultural songs and music, another palace for fine dining, and others.
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| Guests Hall |
Inside the compound, their is a bank dedicated only for the Sultan.
The grandest of all the palaces is the Sultan's residence itself.
Many of the palaces are off-limits to the public.
At the center of the compound is also another palace and it is dedicated as a Museum where the memorabilia of the past Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX are displayed.
There are two things inside the museum that I liked most. One is an old film-camera that was used by Hamengkubuwono IX and few Photography books. I was told by my guide that Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX liked traveling and photography.
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| Order of Sikatuna awarded by Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos |
I was wearing my favorite black t-shirt, my souvenir from Batac Ilocos Norte which says "Father Of All Mankind" printed in front and the full text at the back with the signature of past President Ferdinand Marcos.
I was completely surprised when my guide asked me if I know Pres. Ferdinand Marcos and if I like him. I told her that I'm from the Philippines, I know Pres. Ferdinand Marcos and I liked him. She smiled and then escorted me into one of the display cabinets inside the museum and showed me a big certificate on display, the second thing that I liked most.
"Ferdinand E. Marcos, President of the Philippines,..... hereby confer upon H.E Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX the DATU of the order of SIKATUNA.." and my guide told me that Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX is a good friend with Pres. Ferdinand Marcos.
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| Sultan's Painting |
I continued exploring the museum and there displayed gifts to the Sultan from Germany and England like the water filter and the kerosene lamps.
The design of the grand palaces are awesome. It reflects the authority of the Sultan in Yogyakarta, who is also the Governor of the place and his importance to the people of Yogyakarta and Indonesia as a whole.
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DIENG PLATEAU & DIENG VOLCANO COMPLEX
30 March 2013.
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| Dieng Plateau Park |
Early in the morning, we started driving to the west of the city of Yogyakarta. My destination was the Dieng Plateau where the Dieng volcano complex is located. I was told that the place is quite far from Yogyakarta and it would take not more than four hours drive.
According to the locals, the volcanic complex consists of two or more overlapping stratovolcanoes, more than 20 small craters and extinct volcanic cones. Previous massive eruptions turned one of the stratovolcano, Prahu, into a large caldera and then filled by parasitic cones, lava domes and active craters. Some of the craters were turned into lakes. Toxic volcanic gas had been known to cause fatalities in the area.
THE ARJUNA TEMPLE COMPLEX
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| Temple Complex |
The three temples are small compared to the size of Prambanan and Borobudur. Surrounding the temple complex is a lush green landscape with towering mountain slopes.
THE SIKIDANG CRATER
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| Sikidang Active Crater |
I was informed that the strong heat flow on the plateau of Dieng creates numerous hydro-thermally active areas with boiling mud ponds and fumaroles. There are many interesting hydro-thermal areas in the place one of which is the Kawah Sikidang (Sikidang Crater). As we get nearer the Sikidang crater, the smell of Sulfur immission becomes intense. There is a Geothermal Power Plant nearby with a long large pipe layed on the slope of the mountain where hot fumes coming from the volcano crater passes through going to the Geothermal Plant.
I was so eager to see the Sikidang crater. There are small sulfur vents at the area near the Sikidang crater and the ground is warm. I had to watch on the direction of the fumes coming out of the crater to avoid getting exposed too much with the toxic volcanic gas.
I remembered Tangkuban Parahu when I saw vendors selling volcanic mud and sulfur which they believed to be therapeutic.
I was completely amazed and enjoyed watching the bubbling black mud inside the Sikidang Crater. The area is enclosed with a bamboo fence. To get a better shot of the crater, I climbed a nearby hill and there gazed in full admiration the fuming Kawah Sikidang.
TELAGA WARNA (the Colorful Lake)
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| Lake |
The lake looks like Mt. Pinatubo caldera but smaller and I believe that it is an active crater since it is still part of the Dieng Volcanic complex. White bubbles appear near the middle of the lake and it is warm. The lake is surrounded by lush green forest which was turned into a nice peaceful garden.
At the southern part of the color-changing lake is another lake but unlike the previous one, it is a fresh water lake. I was not able to explore the later because the bridge going to the lake was under repair.
After exploring the lake, we drive south to the city of Wonosobo where I tasted the local dish of Indonesia called "Bebe" or fried duck. It was tasty.
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TAMAN SARI (WATER CASTLE)
31 March 2013. Kraton, Yogyakarta.
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| Entrance Gate |
According to Wikipedia, Taman Sari also known as Taman Sari Water Castle is a site of a former royal garden of the Sultanate of Yogyakarta. It is located about 2 km south within the grounds of the Kraton, Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Built in mid 18th century, the Taman Sari had multiple functions, such as a resting area, a workshop, a meditation area, a defense area, and a hiding place.
Taman Sari consisted of four distinct areas: a large artificial lake with islands and pavilions located in the west, a bathing complex in the centre, a complex of pavilions and pools in the south, and a smaller lake in the east. Today only the central bathing complex is well preserved, while the other areas have been largely occupied by the Kampung Taman settlement.
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| Pool |
Seeing the Taman Sari showed how important the Sultan is to the Indonesian. Although the place was flocked by tourist and the weather was hot when I visited, I enjoyed looking at the clear waters of the pools and the old structures.
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