Province of Iloilo
Iloilo is a province of the Philippines located in the Western Visayas region.
Iloilo occupies the southeast portion of Panay Island and is bordered by province of Antique to the west and province of Capiz and the Jintotolo Channel to the north.
Just off Iloilo's southeast coast is the island province Guimaras, once part of Iloilo but now an independent province.
Across the Panay Gulf and Guimaras Strait is Negros Occidental. Iloilo's capital is Iloilo City though the city itself is independent and not governed by the provincial government of Iloilo (
Wikipedia).
La Paz Batchoy and the iconic Miag-ao Church, among others, are two things that represent Iloilo to most of its visitors. Looking at Miag-ao church from the post cards and blog sites and knowing that it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is indeed a site worth exploring.
I love old historical structures and monuments. Whenever I hear the words "Old Churches, Houses and Buildings" and "Heritage" I can only think of two best places to go - The ILOCOS Provinces and ILOILO. According to many, these provinces have retained most of their Spanish Colonial remnants built more than 300 years ago.
I set in for a three-day road trip and photo-walk at the province of Iloilo to explore and discover its heritage churches and historical landmarks.
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Day 01: 10 June 2012
Explore and Discover Old Churches in Iloilo City and Southern Iloilo.
I had been planning for so long to visit the province of Iloilo to explore the historical and heritage churches there. I had noted on my list the MIAG-AO Church as the most importantly thing to see that I should not miss. It is one of Iloilo's iconic and most photographed landmarks.
I took a late flight from Manila on the 9th of June bound for Iloilo. From Iloilo International Airport, I took a van and alighted just in front of Highway 21 Hotel. I made this home base.
Jaro Cathedral & Belfry
On the first day on my road trip, I explored the heritage sites within the City of Iloilo. Here I found the Cathedral of Jaro and its Belfry located at the middle of the busy highway. It reminded me of three churches in Ilocos - the
Laoag Cathedral with its sinking belfry located beside a busy street, the
Magsingal Church in Ilocos Sur with its belfry located about 40 meters away from the church and also beside a highway and finally, the
Bantay Church and its belfry located atop a hill about 30 meters away from the church.
Jaro Cathedral is located along Seminario St. beside the Graciano - Lopez - Jaena Park in Iloilo City and it can be easily accessible. I took a taxi going the to the Cathedral from my hotel.
Background: The Jaro Cathedral, formally Jaro Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Shrine of Our Lady of the Candles (Spanish: Santuario Nacional de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria), is the cathedral for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Jaro. It is located in district of Jaro of Iloilo City, in the province of Iloilo, on the island of Panay, in the Western Visayas region of the Philippines. It is under the original patronage of Saint Elizabeth of Hungary. The shrine is constructed of Romanesque revival architecture.
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| Jaro Cathedral Belfry |
A distinctive feature is that the bell tower is located across a busy street, on the Jaro Plaza. Typically, belfries are built next to their churches. In this case, the tower was adjacent to an earlier church, but an earthquake destroyed the church and left the tower.
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| Interior |
Another distinctive feature is the stairs attached to the front facade of the cathedral, over the main entrance, leading up to a shrine above the main entrance to a statue of Our Lady of the Candles. It also possesses relics of St. Josemaria Escriva
The original cathedral was built in 1874 by the first Bishop of Jaro, Mariano Cuartero, O.P. It was destroyed by an earthquake in January 1948 and later repaired in 1956 by the first Archbishop of Jaro, Jose Maria Cuenco. The current parish rector is Most Rev. Gerardo Alminaza, Divinitatis Doctor.
Surrounding the cathedral and sharing the same general location are a variety of archdiocesan and parish offices. There is also a perpetual adoration chapel. About a block away is the archdiocesan seminary and across the plaza is the archbishop's palace, or official residence.
In January 2012, the Catholic Bishops' Conference of the Philippines approved the cathedral as the National Shrine of Our Lady of Candles (
Wikipedia).
Molo Church
From Jaro Cathedral, I took a taxi and asked the driver to bring me to Molo Church. Molo Church is located along San Pedro St. within the City of Iloilo. Jeepney with “Molo”or “Villa / Arevalo” on its signboard also pass by Molo Church. The plaza infront of the church was undergoing a major development at that time and it was closed.
Background: The Church of St. Anne, commonly known as the Molo Church, is a Roman Catholic parish church located in Molo District of Iloilo City in the Philippines. The church is one of the most familiar landmarks and tourist attractions in the city.
Built in 1831, Molo Church stands as a reminder of Iloilo’s rich history and a monument for Ilonggo artistry. The church exudes a fusion of the overpowering features of Gothic and the recessive characteristics of Romanesque architectural styles.
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| Interior |
It is said that in August 4, 1886, Dr. Jose Rizal, on his way back to Manila from his exile in Dapitan, passed by the church to pray and view its collection of biblical paintings, which is no longer extant.
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| Molo Church Facade |
Molo church is very sturdy and has survived fires, earthquakes, and artillery barrages in 1945. Molo church was made as an evacuation center for the civilians during WWII. One tower is said to have been destroyed by the Americans after suspecting it was used for military purposes by the Japanese during the Second World War. The bells still bear the scars of bullets shot at Philippine resistance fighters in the second world war. The National Historical Institute declared it a national landmark in 1992. (Explore Iloilo).
La paz Church
From Molo church, I took another taxi and went straight to La Paz church. It is along Jereos Street, located in front of La Paz district Plaza within the City of Iloilo.
Background: The La Paz Church is one of the many reasons why tourists visit Iloilo in the Philippines. This historical church, also known as the Nuestra Señora De La Paz Y Buen Viaje, was built in 1870 with the help of the Spanish friars. This church is now known as the Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage Church, the direct translation of its Spanish name.
A temporary church and convent was built in 1847 by Fr. Candido Gonzales. It was made mostly of wood, bricks and tabique pampango.
Designed based on a Neoclassical-style, the current La Paz Church stands today as one of the centuries-old attractions in the city of Iloilo. This church, constructed from 1870 to 1874, was made of light materials and had to be renovated several times as the years passed. The most notable development of the La Paz church was in 1995 (in its 125th year) with the management of Msgr. Melencio V. Fegarido. In fact, his achievements were commended by the City Government and its people by placing a marker on one side of the church (
Mark Maranga Blog Site).
Guimbal Church - One of th oldest in the Philippines
From La Paz, I went to the terminal market (locally called “Super”) near Robinsons Place and took a jeepney bound for San Joaquin. I asked the driver to drop me off at Guimbal Plaza. The Guimbal Church is located along the highway facing the Guimbal town plaza.
Background: The Guimbal Church is one of the oldest churches in the country. This yellow sandstone church is made from adobe stones called igang and coral stones quarried from Guimaras. It was built in 1774 by Father Campos. The facade is a two-story affair flanked by twinned round pilasters decorated with floral carvings.
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| Interior |
Its vintage belfry is 4 stories high and doubles as a watchtower during the Spanish occupation against pillaging Moro pirates. It has undergone some reconstruction after it was destroyed twice, during the Second World War and during the 1948 earthquake. Recently, it was rehabilitated to its original structure (
Explore Iloilo).
Miagao Church - A UNESCO World Heritage site
From Guimbal Plaza, I took another jeepney bound for San Joaquin and alighted at Miag-ao Plaza. I was so happy to see the facade of the iconic Miag-ao Church for the first time. It is so marvelous and heavily decorated. A mass was about to start at that time and I decided to join.
Background: Miag-ao Church (also known as the Church of Santo Tomas de Villanueva) in the town of Miagao, Iloilo is an Augustinian-built baroque church and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built between 1787 and 1797, its fortress-like design suggests its dual purpose as a place of worship and as a fort used in defending the town against moro raiders. Miag-ao Church exhibits various architectural design with the predominance of baroque and local artistic elements. Its facade employs diverse relief motifs, and period styles. These are carved on local carbonaceous limestone of soft yellow ochre color.
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| Facade |
The adobe used in building the church is made from silt and clay that can only be found in this part of Iloilo, giving the building a unique warm-yellowish glow. Flying buttresses from the side of the church walls are typical of the "earthquake baroque" design reminiscent of churches in Ilocos, particularly Panay Churchand Vigan Cathedral. The church's simple interior is highlighted by a striking gold-plated retablo.
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| Buttresses |
In Baroque-Romanesque style, the church sinks six meters deep into the ground with walls one-and-a-half meters thick and buttresses three times thicker. A heavy frieze and decorative valusters separate the first level from the second as well as the integrated pediment. Columns flank the arched entrance and the lateral sections. The facade has a very subdued vertical movement, mostly overwhelmed by the sweeping horizontal curves and arched portals and saints' niches.
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| Interior |
The strong horizontal movement of the first level is contrasted by the sharp rise of the pediment. The whole structure is flanked by massive bell towers that almost resemble medieval castle towers. The two structures are dissimilar in design because they were commissioned by the two different parish priests (
WikiPilipinas).
Sn Joaquin Church - A cultural gem of the Philippines
From Miag-ao, I went to the town of San Joaquin to explore the old church. I took another jeepney from Miag-ao bound for San Joaquin. The church is located at the south-west of the town plaza beside the municipal hall.
Background: The Church of San Joaquin is the Roman Catholic parish church of the town of San Joaquin in Iloilo Province.
Built in 1869, the church distinguishes itself from other churches in the Philippines because of its militaristic theme. Carved on a disproportionately large pediment on the facade is an intricate sculptural relief depicting the Spanish victory over Moroccan forces in the Battle of Tetuan. The low relief mural captures the drama of victory where cavalry and infantry are tearing down Moorish defense. So intricate is the sculpture that even the expression of agony by wounded soldiers is visible. The title of the composition “Rendicion de Tetuan” is carved at the base of this animated relief.
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| Interior |
The unique features of the San Joaquin Church has received the admiration of its onlookers including the National Historical Institute, which has listed the church as a National Cultural Treasure. The declaration was made in support of the state policy to preserve and protect important cultural properties and safeguard their intrinsic value.
The San Joaquin Church is made of limestones quarried from the mountains of Igbaras and gleaming white coral stones abundant in the shores of San Joaquin. The facade is decorated with rosettes and divided vertically by engaged columns. A plaque above the arched portal displays the Augustinian seal flanked by cherubs. The three altars are also of carved limestone, and were originally painted in bright colors. The San Joaquin Church is flanked by a three story bell tower to its right and ruins of its old convent to its left. Among the sprawling ruins of the convent are an oval well and a kiln for baking bread.
The church magnificently stands on a plain overlooking the sea and is located beside San Joaquin’s town plaza (
Explore Iloilo).
Tigbauan Church
From San Joaquin, I went back to the city riding a jeepney bound for Iloilo City and then alighted at the town of Tigbauan so see the Tigbauan Church. The church is located along Iloilo-Antique Road beside the municipal hall south-west of Tigbauan town plaza.
Background: St. John of Sahagun Church and the convent were constructed by Fr. Fernando Martin in 1867. At the back of its rectory was a Jesuit school for boys. The church was made of reddish coral and limestone. Its facade was done in Spanish Churrisque style. The pilasters resemble Mexican 'estipites'. They taper down to flank the arched main portal. A cherub with bent wings is perched as a keystone above the main arch. Cherubs adorn the other arches.
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| Interior |
The Augustinian emblem of a heart, arrow, and the episcopal coat of arms occupies the cornice's center and serves to mark the division between the first and second levels. The niches are intricately carved. One on the second storey houses a statue of the town's patron, San Nicolas de Tolentino, flanked by a pair of angels. Right above it is a small statue of the Santo Niño. Flowers in relief rest on the base of the pediment (
WikiPilipinas).
I concluded my first day of road trip at Tigbauan Church. I was so happy to have explored the 4th of the 4 Heritage and Historical Philippine churches inscribed by the prestigious UNESCO as a World Heritage Site under the category - "
Baroque Churches of the Philippines". The historical Miag-ao Church is located about 40 kilometers south of Iloilo City. It is an hour and a half travel from the terminal at Iloilo City. The architecture of the church facade is truly awesome and its walls are so massive. It's worth the travel.
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Day 02; 11 June 2012
Explore and Discover Old Churches in West Central Iloilo.
West Central Iloilo is characterized by a predominantly agro-industrial economy. The towns offer different kinds of attractions from centuries old churches, recreational centers, to waterfalls and a mountain lake. West Central Iloilo can be accessed by riding a jeep in Ungka Terminal in Jaro District (located in front of Christ the King Cemetery).
Hopping from one jeepney to another, I explored West Central Iloilo and discovered several heritage churches constructed more than a hundred years ago.
Cabatuan Church
From Iloilo City, I traveled north to town of Cabatuan. I took a jeepney from Ungka terminal. Cabatuan church is located along the old Iloilo-Capiz Road facing the Cabatuan Public Plaza. It is a large church with two huge belfries beside the facade. The church was closed at the time of my visit so I marveled just at its exterior.
Background: Neoclassical in style, the church of San Nicolas de Tolentino, patron saint of Cabatuan, was built in 1834, replacing the temporary ones constructed by earlier priests. It was Rev. Fr. Ramon Alquizar, an Augustinian, who initiated in building the church. Every side of the church is a facade in itself.
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| Entrance to the Church |
Its walls are overlaid with red bricks. Before World War II, there was a spacious rectory or convento, which can accommodate 3000 people, at the right side of the church. It was however burned by the guerillas in 1942 as part of their scorched earth strategy.
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| Side Wall |
In 1943, it was demolished by the Japanese Imperial Army and its bricks were used as overlay for the Tiring Landing Field. On Jan. 25, 1948, the church was partly destroyed by an earthquake that rocked the island of Panay. The central structure of the church is in the shape of the cross which is about 50 meters long and about 20 meters wide, with its walls about a meter and a half thick. Its facade is decorated with the pope’s tiara flanked by the Augustinian symbol of the transfixed heart capped by the bishop’s hat surrounded by a cord. The upper part of the walls have 19 circular windows with multicolored glass panes (
Explore Iloilo).
Pavia Church
From Cabatuan, I took a jeepney bound south. I alighted at the town of Pavia. The Pavia church is at the center of Pavia tow proper. From the old Iloilo-Capiz road, I took a tricycle going to Pavia town proper.
Background: Pavia Parish Church, popularly known as Sta. Monica Parish Church is a century-old church built by the Spanish Augustinian Fathers sometime in 1862. The interior and exterior walls of this Romanesque-Byzantine church are made entirely of red-bricks, making it the only one existing in the island of Panay. It is said that the structure was copied from a church in Pavia, Italy. Sta. Monica Parish Church as it is popularly known was built and designed by the Augustinian Fathers sometime in 1862. It is inspired from the 11th Century Basilica of San Michele Maggiore of Pavia, Italy. The church façade is decorated with semi-circular arched windows and entrances. It has a very simple design, a rectangular shaped-floor plan with a barrel-shaped apse at the back of the church. Three wooden doors serve as entrances to the church, one at the entrance and the other two at both sides.
The front of the church has six panel windows supported by semi-circular arches at the center; all decorated with stained glasses depicting significant events in Christ’s life here on earth. The entrance to the church is a covered porch gated by semi-circular arches as well, with Greek crosses decorating the walls (
Pavia Church).
Sta. Barbara Church
From Pavia, I traveled north to the town of Sta. Barbara. From the highway, I alighted at Roosevelt Street and took a tricycle going to Sta. Barbara Victory Plaza. The old church and convent are located at the northern side of the Victory Plaza beside the municipal hall. A football field is located at the southern side of the plaza.
Background: The story starts, according to the Augustinian Archives, in 1617 where the Augustinians were ministering to the faithful in the community then known as Catmon. The name of the settlement: Catmon was chosen because of the proliferation of Catmon trees in the area.
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| Interior |
Unfortunately, over the years the Catmon trees have disappeared from the region and there is only one left to be found adjacent to the current Municipal Police Station and Victory Square. It was not until Friar Francisco Aguerria arrived in 1845 that construction of the present church was started. The startof the church construction conincided with the establishment of the road network in the region. The roads were being built to link Cabatuan, Maasin, Janiuay, Leon and Alimodian.
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| Old Convent |
This is an Augustinian Church and as with all others it bears the Augustinian seal on the facade of the church. The main church building used stone quarried in and transported from not so nearby Leon, Alimodian and Tubungan. The wood used: mulawon and mangle was also carried from the mountains and hillsides of those same municipalities (
Sta. Barbara Church).
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Day 03; 12 June 2012
Explore and Discover Old Churches in East Central Iloilo and South Central Iloilo.
East Central Iloilo is a mix of coastal and inland towns. The inland towns are the big rice producing towns in Iloilo except for Passi City, which is known for its Sugar Industry while the coastal town of Dumangas is characterized by hectares of fishponds and salt beds. East Central Iloilo towns can be accessed by riding a jeep or bus in Tagbak Terminal in Jaro.
The heritage churches of East Central Iloilo.
Dumangas Church
From
Iloilo City, I traveled north-east to the town of Duenas. I took a bus from Tagbak terminal. I alighted at Pototan-Dingle Road and took a tricycle ride to Dumanags town proper. The church is located along Banga-Bante
Dumangas Road beside Dacutan Elementary school.
Background: Constructed
together with a convent by Fr. Martin de Rada OSA in 1572 under the
patronage of St. Augustine. Burned in 1628 and rebuilt but later
destroyed by earthquake on 1787. Reconstructed with Gothic and Byzantine
influence by Fr. Fernando Llorente on 1887 and completed at the
administration of Fr. Rafael Murillo on 1896.
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| Side Wall |
Restoration of the old
church was initiated by the National Historical Institute to revive the
former most artistic church in the entire Panay Island. By the power of
Presidential Decree No. 260 dated 1 August 1973, PD No. 375 dated 14
January 1974, and PD No. 1505, this church is hereby proclaimed as a
national historical treasure (
Dumangas Church).
Dingle Church
From Dumangas, I took a bus bound north and alighted at the town of Dingle. My mission was to explore the old church there.
I alighted at Pototan-Dingle road and from there, I took a tricycle going to Dingle town proper where the church is located.
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| Main Entrance |
Background: The Dingle Catholic Church was built in 1886. This church of Baroquial style is made of limestone from Bulabog Mountain, painstakingly carried by the early parishioners through narrow, steep and dangerous trails to the present site (
Explore Iloilo).
Duenas church
From Dingle, I traveled north on a bus passing through Iloilo-Capiz Road and alighted at the town of Duenas. The Duenas church is located along the highway so I just asked the bus driver to drop me at the church.
Background: A mention of Duenas to an Ilonggo will most probably evoke an association with mysticism and the dark arts, a reputation which can be traced from horror stories set in its lands and creepy tales of old.
Some people consider Duenas as “Iloilo’s misunderstood town” because of the misconceptions that has developed over the decades. Whether it may be true or not, a visit to the Duenas Church, built in 1884, will surely remind you of the strong bond that binds the people of Duenas to the Catholic Faith.
The Duenas Church, hardly ever talked about or mentioned in books, is one of Iloilo’s finest examples of Baroque Architecture. Inspecting the Facade, the overpowering proportion of its octagon belfries is very evident and gives the church an extraordinary beauty that is quite different from the other churches in Iloilo (
Duenas Church).
Passi Church
From Duenas I traveled farther north to the town of Passi. The church is located along the Iloilo-Capiz Road facing the Passi Elementary School Campus.
Background: Founded in 1584, Passi is now a chartered city in the Province of Iloilo. It is authentic that Passi City had the most colorful people in the island, the Pintados. However, the history of the church could be traced back in the early 1600′s but the present church was initiated in 1821-1837. The architectural style is perhaps undistinguished but it might be referred as Baroque. It is one of the largest in Iloilo and all sides are dominated with massive butresses. There is a confusion about the original location of the facade. The design is primitive yet there is an artistic carving on which is possibly the facade (
Explore Iloilo).
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| Interior |
South Central Iloilo is composed of Alimodian, Leon, and San Miguel. The three towns are often referred to as "ALEOSAN." Jeepneys going to ALEOSAN can be found at the Jaro Big Market (also referred to as Desamparados)
The heritage churches of South Central Iloilo.
Leon Church
From Iloilo City, I took a jeepney at Jaro Big market and head on to the town of Leon to see the old church there. I Alighted at Tigbauan-Cordova-Leon-Tabiana crossing and took a tricycle going to Leon town proper.
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| Church Facade |
The church is located at the north-west side of the Leon Town Plaza beside St. Catherine Parochial School.
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| Old Convent |
Background:
The Neo-classical styled Leon Church stands in front of a beautiful and
well-maintained plaza. It was planned to be one of Iloilo’s biggest and
grandest church but for some reason it was left unfinished (
Explore Iloilo).
Alimodian Church
From the town of Leon, I traveled east and alighted at the Aleosan Disrict Hospital. From there, I took a jeepney bound north to the town of Alimodian, where the old church is located. Alimodian church is located at the eastern side of the Alimodian Town Plaza.
Background: The Alimodian Church was first constructed in 1787 by Fr. Florencio Martin. The structure became famous because of its artistic belfry, which used to be one of the tallest among churches in Iloilo and Negros. Although the belfry had survived three earthquakes (1787, 1869, 1887), the 1948 earthquake called Lady Kaykay contributed to the collapse of its second and third levels. The Alimodian Church is made of limestone and its architecture has a neoclassic inspiration. Strange openings/holes of unknown purpose can be found in different areas of the church.
A blatantly dominating part of the church is its dome, which is a recent addition. Beside the Church is its convent, which used to stretch until the edge of the town plaza. Aside from the belfry, the 1948 earthquake also led to the collapse of the church convent’s second level, it is currently being reconstructed by the church parish. Between the Alimodian Church and its convent is a beautiful landscaped mini garden utilized for receptions for weddings, parties and other celebrations. At the far side of the garden is the grotto of our Lady, an attraction of the Alimodian Church, which speaks of Alimodiananon’s devotion to Mary (
Alimodian Church).
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