Province of Bohol
Whenever I hear the word "Bohol" I had two things in mind, the Chocolate Hills and the Tarsiers. For so long, I had been dreaming of traveling to this place to satisfy my curiosity and enjoy being out of the bustling city.
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| Bohol Tarsier |
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| Chocolate Hills |
Just after my birthday, I set in for a three-day road trip at the southern part of Bohol to explore and discover a number of well-known tourist destinations. After all, Bohol is not just all about the Chocolate Hills or the Tarsiers. Just like other provinces, Bohol is a home to dozens of centuries-old churches and monuments and impressive beaches to name a few.
Day 1: 03 November 2012
I flew from Manila to Tagbilaran early morning on the 3rd of November 2012. I was so very excited. Since it was my first time at Bohol, I signed up for a customized road trip. I created my own itinerary considering the destinations that I wanted to explore and discover.
Looking at the places of my interest, I had decided to do a road trip at the southern part of the island. From the airport, I went straight to Tagbilaran City and checked in at a hotel near the Tagbilaran Church. I had a quick breakfast.
I started my road trip at exactly 9AM. From Tagbilaran, I traveled to the town of Dimiao. The road was clear and in less than an hour, I was at the town of Dimiao.
Background: Dimiao is a fifth class municipality in the province of Bohol, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 15,166 people. The municipality of Dimiao, including its church and municipal hall, lies alongside the C.P.G. circumferential road on the southern coast of the island, about 36 kilometres (22 mi) east of Tagbilaran City.
The people of Dimiao lives on farming, tuba gathering, rope making and fishing since it is located along the coast. Rice, corn, maguey, copra, rope and tuba are their most important products.
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| Dimiao Church |
My first treasure at Dimiao was the centuries-old Dimiao Church and the Ermita Ruins.
Background: The San Nicolas Tolentino Church (Saint Nicholas of Tolentino Church) is the parish church of Dimiao, Bohol. The date of the parish's foundation is uncertain, although by 1750 there are records of baptism in the parish. The church may have been built toward the later half of the 19th century. The structure of cut stone is cruciform, though its transept is short. The façade can be described as Neobaroque. Although classical overall, shallow reliefs of flowers arranged as vertical bands decorate the façade. The façade is flanked by twin octagonal towers.
The church interior is simple, coming to a focus at the Neoclassical altars. One of the side altars is missing. The convent is located behind the church and is now a school. Beside the church are the ruins of what appears to be cemetery and two mortuary chapels. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered very little remains, probably the site was never used (Wikipedia).
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| Ermita Ruins |
Ermita Ruins, on the other hand is a cemetery located just beside the Dimiao Church. The tomb structure still there but they are all empty. There are more than a hundred open tombs made of brick and adobe stones.
The church was closed during my visit but even without wandering inside, I knew that the interior is as marvelous as the exterior of the church.
From Dimiao, I traveled west passing by an impressive view of the sea, a very nice landscape. I stopped over for a ten-minute photo ops. I traveled further west and reached the town of Lila, a fifth class municipality. Wikipedia says in 2010 it had a population of nearly 12,000 people. Lila church is just along the highway so I stopped just in front of the church.
According to the church administrator, as early as in 1899, the faith and love for the Blessed Virgin Mary was firmly engraved in the hearts of the people of Lila. During the conflagration, the image of the Our Lady of the Holy Rosary was found intact among the ashes.
A chapel was constructed to provide shelter for the image, yet again; the chapel was burned down by the Americans. However, the image was found intact and without the slightest sign of damage after the 2nd conflagration. And so, when the time came for the parish church of Lila was to be established, the Blessed Virgin was lovingly enthroned as their Patroness.
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| Lila Church |
The administrator said that the present church was constructed just almost recently. It was constructed in the year 1915 during the administration of Rev. Fr. Narciso Maglasang with full cooperation of the parishioners, the present church was built. The convent was constructed under the able administration of Rev. Fr. Miguel Ortega sometime in the year 1941 (Wikipedia).
The church, just like Dimiao, was also closed at that time so I wasn't able to see the interior.
From the town of Lila, I continued by trip westward and reached the town of Albuquerque. The old church is situated along the highway.
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| Albuquerque Church |
The church was partly opened. The looks of the structure is very old. Facing the church facade at the right side is a very old convent attached to the church. The church walls are made of adobe stones cut into square blocks. The old convent still being used. The windows are made of thinly polished capiz shells.
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| Old Convent |
Background: The Santa Monica Parish Church complex, located along the highway, was built on a low knoll in the town of Alburquerque, nicknamed by the Boholanos as "Albur.". The Albur parish was established in 1869 after being separated from the parish of Baclayon, Bohol. An 1886 report indicated that the church was built of light materials, however, the convent (convento) described as "of great dimension" was already standing.
This was made of sont, wood and on the second floor of the convent, tabique (wattle and daub) walls. The date of construction of the church is around 1885, although, the generous use of reinforced concrete for the façade and the bell tower, which is integrated into the façade, indicates that the church was either completed or renovated in the around the 1920s. The church interior has been renovated. The large convent to the side of the church is connected by a bridge to the church. The whole complex is harmonized by a series of arches linking the church, bridge and convent (Wikipedia).
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| Albuquerque Church Interior |
I had a change to get inside the church. There was a renovation work at that time. The very old pulpit still hangs on one of the wooden pillars and the ceiling was beautifully painted. There were scaffoldings inside. Unlike other old churches, the columns inside are made of hardwoods instead of adobe stone or bricks.
After exploring the centuries-old church and convent, I heard that there is a large python nearby. They call it "Prony". So I asked the van driver to take me to the place to see the reptile. A few minutes drive from the old church, there is a small house and there were people lined up the entrance gate.
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| Bohol Python |
When I get inside the house, I saw the large Python hibernating. I had the chance of getting near the reptile and took a souvenir photo.
From Albuquerque, I traveled further west and reached the historic Baclayon Church. Historians said that the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception' in Baclayon is one of the oldest churches in the Philippines founded in 1596. It is one of the best preserved Jesuit-built churches in the region, although in the 19th century, the Augustinian Recollects added a modern facade and a number of stone buildings that now surround the church.
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| Baclayon Church |
One thing that captured my attention was the huge bell tower at the right side of the church facade. The old convent had been turned into a museum of antique religious artifacts that were preserved for a long time.
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| Baclayon Church Interior |
The church interior, just as I expected, is grandiose. The old pulpit hangs on the right side of the church naive facing the main altar. According to Wikipedia, the church has a pipe organ installed in 1824 that was in disrepair and unplayable for a long time. It was restored in 2008. The choir and organ loft are decorated with cut out designs. The painting on the stucco finish of the church is of recent vintage (1996) and does not conform to the style and period of the interior.
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| Blood Compact Site |
Traveling north-west from Baclayon, I saw the Blood Compact site monument at the left side of the highway.
Background: Blood compact (Spanish: Pacto de sangre) was an ancient ritual in the Philippines intended to seal a friendship or treaty, or to validate an agreement. The contracting parties would cut their wrists and pour their blood into a cup filled with liquid, such as wine, and drink the mixture.
At the same site was where Spanish explorer Miguel López de Legazpi and Datu Sikatuna, the chieftain of Bohol ahd Blood Compact in 1565 (Wikipedia).
From the Blood Compact site, I traveled further north-west to the island of Panglao. I had two treasures at the island, the Dauis Church and the Hinagdanan Cave.
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| Dauis Church |
I first explored the Dauis Church, Watchtower and the Convent.
Background: The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption in Dauis, Bohol, on the Island of Panglao is located not far from the bridge that connects Panglao with Bohol. The church was founded by the Jesuits Fr. Diego de Ayala and Joseph Gregorio.
The basilica-style church is built in a mixture of styles, influenced by both Byzantine and Romanesque architecture. Inside, the ceiling have some impressive frescoes painted by Ray Francia in 1916. The ceiling over the central nave and aisles are coffered woodwork and not tromp l'oeil.
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| Dauis Church Interior |
Lito Arraya renovated the building in 1970. The church's patron saint, Our Lady of the Assumption, is enshrined at the church apse, protected by a ciborium-like canopy. She is said to possess miraculous powers. An old legend relates that once the town was invaded by pirates, the people of Dauis locked themselves into the church.
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| Dauis Old Convent |
However, they soon ran out of provisions and water. Then a miracle occurred - a well appeared at the foot of the altar. This same well is still the main source of water for the people living close to the church, and although the well is only a few meters from the sea, the water is absolutely fresh. The water is said to have healing powers (Wikipedia).
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| Dauis Old Spanish Watchtower |
At the back of the church is an old Spanish watchtower overlooking the sea and a wide plaza. The convent had been turned into a Cafe-Lawis selling beautiful souvenirs.
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| Hinagdanan Cave |
Nearby the church is the Dauis Hinagdanan Cave. The locals said it is a Dead Cave. There is a narrow passage leading inside the cave with stairs. Inside the cave is a pool of clear water resembling that of an underground swimming pool.
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| Panglao Island Sunset |
After exploring the Hinangdanan Cave, it was beginning to turn dark. I went along the shores of Panglao island and there I saw a very nice sunset view.
From Panglao isalnd, I traveled back to my hotel at Tagbilaran City.
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Day 2: 04 November 2012
From Tagbilaran City, I traveled south for an hour to the town of Balilihan.
Background: Balilihan is a fourth class municipality in the province of Bohol, Philippines. Balilihan is located 22 kilometres (14 mi) northeast of Tagbilaran City via Cortes (thru CPG North Avenue) or 20 kilometres (12 mi) northeast via Corella (thru J.A. Clarin Street). It holds the fourth (4th) largest land mass of the province, having 15,022 hectares/150.22 square km of its land area. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 17,147 people and 10,049 registered voters (Wikipedia).
I traveled to Balilihan to explore the Balilihan Church, The Spanish Watchtower and the Kawasan Waterfalls.
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| Kawasan Falls |
The Kawasan Falls can be found in barangay Candasig, Balilihan, about 22 kilometers from Tagbilaran. A few kilometres before the poblacion, a sign will point out the road to take to get to the falls. Alternatively, the falls can be reached by boat over the Abatan river. If the water is not too low, it is at the end of the navigable water of that river. The small pond below the waterfall can be used for bathing.
From Kawasan falls, I visited the Balilihan Church.
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| Balilihan Church |
Background: The town and parish of Balilihan were separated from Baclayon and established in 1829, to make room for Dagohoy’s followers after the revolt, which lasted eight decades, put to end by a massive assault by Spanish troops from Cebu.
An earlier church and convent were built on the opposite bank where the present church is located. Some stones were found in that area, which could have belonged to these religious structures that were damaged by a typhoon in 1863. Right after, a church and convent of tabique and nipa had been built, but this time it was on the present site of Balilihan Church. The destruction in 1863 may have prompted the transfer. The structures were renovated in 1889.
Tragically, during the Philippine-American War, the Americans razed the town in November 1900 to the dismay of the populace, who welcomed the American troops complete with a brass band. A church, made with reinforced concrete, was subsequently built in the early decades of the 20th century.
The present Parish Church of Balilihan dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel, was probably completed sometime in the early 20th century. It has a central nave, flanked by two aisles. In front of the church is the portico with the central bell placed in front. The cruciform church has a squat octagonal cupola. The ceiling is embellished with frescoes painted by Ray Francia. The altars have combined Corinthian columns, neogothic spires and crockets, Baroque volutes and Art Deco open work. A veritable summary of 200 years of style (Wikipedia).
From the Balilihan church, I did a short trek to Mt. Carmel where the old Spanish watchtower can be found.
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| Mt. Carmel Belfry |
Background: On Our Lady of Mount Carmel Hill overlooking the plaza, is a much older structure. Built in 1836 and completed and inaugurated in 1846. The materials of cut coral used for this monument were taken by the locals from the nearby coastal area of Baclayon. The Balilihan bell tower functions both as a watchtower and as a bell tower standing at a strategic position, which made it a useful sentinel for the Abatan River. The tower located about 20 km (12 mi) upstream also serves a watchtower against marauding bands.
Rising to four stories with no clear divisions between floors, the quadrilateral bell tower used to be sheathed with cut coral. Its windows are few concentrated mostly on the uppermost floor, where the arched opening are decorated by scroll work and floral designs. The whole structure has a hip roof with wide overhangs, supported by carved corbels. The structure had a tile roof but like the rest of the tower is in disrepair. The bells of the tower have been removed and are in a bell tower of the parish church at the foot of the hill (Wikipedia).
From Balilihan, I traveled to the nearby town of Corella to see the Tarsiers.
Background: Corella is a fifth class municipality in the province of Bohol, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 7,699 people. It is located 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) north of the provincial capital, Tagbilaran City. It was named after a town in the province of Navarre in northern Spain.
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| Bohol Tarsier |
Corella is known primarily as the home of the endemic Philippine Tarsier, the world's smallest primate. The 7.4 hectare Philippine Tarsier sanctuary run by the Philippine Tarsier Foundation, as well as the Research and Development Center is in Barangay Cancatac (Canapnapan) of Corella, about three kilometers from the town proper.
The people of Corella are predominantly conservative Roman Catholics who belong to the Parish of Our Lady of the Village (Latin: Nuestra Señora del Villar) whose feast is celebrated on April 27, only four days before the Feast of St. Joseph, the patron saint of Tagbilaran City celebrated on May 1 (Wikipedia).
Just in time for lunch, I traveled from Corella to Loboc, where the famous Loboc river cruise (Floating Restaurant) was waiting for me. I boarded the huge boat filled with tourist and we cruised along the Loboc river. Lunch was served.
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| Loboc Floating Restaurant |
There were children choirs along the river banks singing Philippine folk-songs. Some were performing Philippine folk dances like tinikling. On board, we were serenaded by a local singer performing several well-known musics. The cruise lasted for an hour.
After enjoying the Loboc River tour, I explored the old Loboc Church. This church was one of my favorite old churches in Bohol. The church is located just at the other side of the Loboc River.
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| Loboc Church |
Background: The Church of San Pedro (Saint Peter) in Loboc, Bohol is the second oldest church established in Bohol. It was originally built in 1602, but was soon reduced to ashes. In 1638, a stronger replacement was built. Located near the river, it has survived a number of floods. Inside the church, there are some remarkable frescoes on the ceiling.
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| Old Convent |
A Spanish coat-of-arms can be found in the stone wall near the entrance of the convent. The bell tower of Loboc is about 100 m (330 ft) across the street from the church. Attached to the building is a three storey convent, which today houses the Museo de Loboc (Loboc Museum) on the third floor.
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| Belfry |
This museum houses a few old statues of saints, and some other antique religious artifacts. In Loboc, you can also admire a shameful witness of wasteful government planning. Exactly next to the church is a partly finished bridge across the river. The bridge was never finished as it involves the removal of the Church to be completed (Wikipedia).
From Loboc, I traveled North to Carmen to explore the Chocolate Hills. Along the way, I passed by the town of Bilar where the Mahogany man-made forest is located and the Butterfly Conservation Center.
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| Mahogany Man-Made Forest |
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| Butterfly Conservation Center |
At around 2PM, I reached the town of Carmen. Along the way, there were few Chocolate hills scattered all over the place. I went up the viewing deck to get a full view of the Chocolate hills. The view of the Chocolate Hills was marvelous.
Background: Carmen is a second class municipality located in the heart of the province of Bohol, Philippines. It is composed of 29 barangays with an area of 248.04 square kilometres (95.77 sq mi). It was founded in 1869. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 43,579 people.
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| Carmen Chocolate Hills |
The Chocolate Hills is the main tourist attraction of this town with 1,776 hills. Aside from the world-famous Chocolate Hills, there are forests, caves and waterfalls to discover (Wikipedia).
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| Sevilla Hanging Bridge |
From Carmen, I went to the town of Sevilla and enjoyed crossing the hanging bridge from one side of the river to the other side.
My visit to Sevilla concluded my second day at Bohol.
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Day 3: 05 November 2012
On my third day, I decided to do quick hike at Banat-i. From my place, I took a tricycle and then asked the driver to bring me at the Jump-Off point of Mt. Banat-i.
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| Trail to Banat-i |
I discovered that the jump-off point is a subdivision. It took me atleast 30 minutes to hike Banat-i.
At the top, the surrounding sea and the island of Panglao can be clearly seen - a nice landscape shot.
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| Tagbilaran Church |
I went back to Tagbilaran City after and then explorered the Tagbilaran Church.
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A lighted scroll mark at the plaza ground was lighted making it very visible at dark.
The building at the right side of the plaza (facing the church) that was under construction when I last visited the place is now a souvenir shop and a food court.
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