Trekking Gunung Bromo and Gunung Ijen, East Java, Indonesia

East Java, Indonesia
April 16-19, 2014 

Almost a year since I climbed the majestic Gunung Rinjani on the island of Lombok in Indonesia, I came back to the kingdom of volcanoes once more for another exciting volcano exploration.

Aside from the cultural and natural wonders, I find the Indonesian people accommodating, friendly and respectful. Above all else, I don't feel like being a foreigner in Indonesia because Indonesians are very much like Filipinos.

In fact, for so many times, I had been mistaken as Indonesian by many - at the airport, at the market and wherever I go. Only when I started to talk that I revealed my identity to them as a true full blooded Filipino.

I started to love volcanoes when I explored Mount Pinatubo. That was also my introduction to the hiking world.

Indonesia has the most number of active volcanoes in the world today. That probably is one of the reasons why I kept coming back to this country.

For quite sometime, I had been dreaming to discover and explore Gunung Bromo and Ijen. I had done several research about these volcanoes and marveled at stunning photographs and so, I decided to experience the adventure first hand.

Day 0 (Apr 16): Flight from Manila to Jakarta to Surabaya
I took a morning flight from Manila to Jakarta and arrived at Soekarno Hatta International Airport at exactly 1200H. After my Immigration clearance, I transferred to Terminal 1 for my connecting flight to Kota Surabaya. I landed at Surabaya at 1705H. It was my first time to be there. 

Hotel Kenongo Surabaya

I checked in at Hotel Kenongo, a standard hotel 25 minutes drive from the airport. 

Tasty Nasi Goreng

It was dinner time when I arrived at the hotel and so I ordered my favorite tasty Indonesian food called Nasi Goreng.

Day 1 (Apr 17): Travel from Kota Surabaya to Kota Banyuwangi
After having breakfast, I headed on to the train station. While on board the jeep, I enjoyed looking at the surroundings at Kota Surabaya. After all, it is a highly urbanized city next to Jakarta. If Jakarta is to Manila, then Surabaya is to Cebu in the Philippines.

Train Station at Surabaya

I arrived at the Surabaya Train Station exactly 0800H. I took a one-way ticket to Kota Banyuwangi, the place where Gunung Ijen can be found. 

Inside Executive Train

I took the 0900H trip on executive (air conditioned) train since it will be a long trip. I traveled for 7 hours on a train from Surabaya to Banyuwangi. 

Train Terminal at Banyuwangi

I arrived at Banyuwangi train station around 1600H. 

Mahkota Plengkung Hotel Banyuwangi

I checked in at Mahkota Plengkung Hotel & Restaurant. This hotel is located nearby the train station. 

Day 2 (Apr 18): Explore Gunung Ijen Crater
At 0100H, I met my guide Mr. Alyn and we left the hotel on board a 4x4 jeep and headed on to the village of Licin. We continued driving to the slope of Gunung Ijen. We passed through plantations and rainforest. According to Alyn, this is one of the few remaining rainforests on the Island of Java with giant ferns and big old trees. The sky was so clear and the moon was bright that early in the morning and while we ascended along the winding road, I started to feel the cold air and smell the sulfur coming out of the volcano.

It was an hour drive on a 4x4 vehicle and we arrived at the jump-off point at 0200H. Together with few hikers, we started trekking Gunung Ijen at 0230H. The trail is nice. One of the highlights of this trek was the sulfur miners carrying atleast 4 heavy blocks of natural sulfur from inside the crater of the volcano. 

Sulfur Mines

Each full load could weigh between 25 to 30 kilograms (my rough estimate). Alyn said that they usually start their sulfur operations at 0000H. According to him, the sulfur blocks will be turned into many consumable products like sulfur soaps.

Gunung Ijen Crater Rim

At 0400H, Alyn and I together with few hikers were at the crater rim of Gunung Ijen. From the crater rim, we continued our journey to the bottom of the crater where the crater lake and the active sulfur vents can be found. 

Inside Gunung Ijen Crater

We arrived at the bottom of the crater at 0425H. It was still dark and I was amazed by something inside the crater that I had never seen before from anyv of my past volcano explorations.

 

Few meters from where I stood are the fuming sulfur vents. Right at the sulfur vents can be seen several bright BLUE FLAMES. The flames could go as high as 6 meters. 

The Blue Flame

According to Alyn, the BLUE FLAMES are actually very hot sulfur gas coming out of the volcano active vents. I spotted 3 huge blue flames at that time. It was starting to get bright inside the crater when we started ascending back to the crater rim. 

Ijen Crater Lake

Crater Lake View Deck

At the middle of the trail, we spotted a nice viewing deck and we stayed there for few minutes looking at the bright green lake as it started to get clearer.

Crater Trail

We continued getting up to the crater rim and there we waited for the sunrise. I spotted the first ray of light from the sun at 0605H coming from behind the neighboring mountains. 

Sunrise at Gunung Ijen Crater Rim

The sky was so clear at that time however, the crater was filled with the thick white smoke coming out of the sulfur vents. We waited until 0700H hoping to see the green lake better but to no avail. 

The Green Crater Lake

Only a small portion of the lake appeared to us from the crater rim. At 0715H, we started our descent from Gunung Ijen Crater rim. 

Ijen Crater Rim

View of Neighboring Mountains

The view of the neighboring mountains from the crater rim was truly stunning. The sea of clouds reminded me of Mount Pulag.

Sulfur Souvenirs

We were back at the jump-off point at 0810H and then drove back to the hotel on board the 4x4 vehicle. We arrived at the hotel at 0925H. I had a quick breakfast and then checked out.

From the hotel, we took a van bound for Kota Probolinggo. Probolinggo is a city on the north coast of East Java, Indonesia in Probolinggo Regency. Like most of northern East Java, the city has a large Madurese population in addition to many ethnically Javanese people.

It was another 4-hour long travel from Banyuwangi to Probolinggo. At 1425H, we were at Probolinggo Bromo mini-bus station.

These mini-buses are the only vehicle bound to the region of Gunung Bromo. The weather was so hot and humid at that time and the mini-buses are not air conditioned.

Fifteen of us fitted inside each mini-bus. We left Probolinggo Bromo station at 1500H. The road that leads to Cemara Lawang reminded me of the road leading to Sagada in the Northern Philippines. While we are ascending, it started to get colder. Along the way, I enjoyed the view of amazing landscapes and plantations.

Gunung Bromo

We arrived at Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park at 1645H and there I saw, for the first time, the massive Tengger caldera and the stunning view of Gunung Bromo and Gunung Semeru. It was so beautiful.

Home Stay

Bromo Indah Home Stay

I checked in at a nearby Bromo Indah home stay and after fixing my things, I went out to feast my eyes with the sunset view of Gunung Bromo inside the massive Tengger caldera. The sunset view was perfect.

Sunset View at Gunung Bromo

I had a fried chicken, corn soup and a hot chocolate for dinner at a nearby restaurant.

Day 3 (Apr 19): Explore Gunung Bromo
At 0300H, Alyn and I started to trek towards the viewing platform at Gunung Penanjakan. The viewing deck is approximately 2,770MASL overlooking Gunung Bromo at 2,329MASL. We arrived at the viewing deck at 0500H and there waited for sunrise.

Gunung Penanjakan Viewing Deck

The entire caldera was covered with clouds (sea of clouds) before the sunrise. 

Tengger Caldera Rim Early Morning

At 0615H, the show started. As the golden rays of the sun hits the tip of Gunung Bromo, the covering white clouds slowly disappeared exposing Gunung Bromo, the Sea of Sand below and Gunung Semeru. 

Sunrise View of Gunung Bromo

It was so amazing. I was just like watching a nice stage play that started with the opening of the stage curtain. 

I was so amazed at the view of the Tengger caldera, Gunung Bromo and Gunung Semeru at the back. The entire scene looked like a massive painting hanging on the wall.

From the viewing deck, we took a motorbike and descended inside the caldera. 

Slope of Gunung Bromo

There are many 4x4 vehicles inside the massive caldera similar to those that we have at Mt. Pinatubo.

Sandy Slope of Gunung Bromo

Hindu Temple

There is a Hindu Temple nearby Gunung Bromo dedicated to the Hindu god of creation Brahma.

The Sandy Trail

We started trekking the crater wall of Gunung Bromo at 0900H. 

Stairway to Gunung Bromo Crater Rim

There is a stair going up the crater but I insisted that we take the sandy trail instead. I enjoyed trekking the crater wall of Gunung Bromo along the "natural trail".

Volcanic Sand

While trekking the sandy volcanic trail, I remembered the time I climbed Gunung Rinjani. the trail going up the crater was just like it.

Gunung Bromo Crater

Crater Rim

At the crater rim, I enjoyed the view of the deep Gunung Bromo crater fuming with white sulfur vapor. Alyn said that we can walk around the crater but that would take 2 hours. We started descending from the crater at 1030H and then headed back to Bromo Indah.

I took a quick early lunch and then we headed back to Probolinggo. We arrived at Kota Probolinggo at 1245H and then took a bus bound for Surabaya. I arrived at Surabaya International airport at 1600H.

I left Surabaya International Airport at 1845H and arrived at Jakarta International Airport at 2010H. I finally left Jakarta at 0045H on the 20th of April bound for Manila with a smiling and fulfilled heart.

I've been telling my friends that perhaps one big disadvantage of traveling and exploring great places like this is that - IT IS EXTREMELY HARD TO GET BACK TO REALITY after!!

I say - TERIMA KASIH, INDONESIA!!

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