Explore & Discover Southern Ilocos

Southern Ilocos

11 October 2014

From Sarrat, I headed back to Laoag City and took a bus bound for Vigan City in Ilocos Sur and prepared to explore southern Ilocos. I checked in at a nice ancestral home in Vigan and there I prepared to explore the towns of the southern Ilocos beginning from the nothernmost town of Sinait down to Tagudin.

Ilocos Sur Capitol

(Photo source: http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/56001686.jpg)

Before starting my road trip, I decided to move around the City of Vigan first to explore this World Heritage City, the only one in the entire Philippines.

VIGAN CITY, UNESCO World Heritage City

Vigan Cathedral

Cathedral Interior

Vigan is a modest city with a gigantic cultural and historical value. Unlike modern cities in the Philippines, Vigan is the only city that has maintained and adapted its old world Spanish architecture and urban planning.

Calle Crisologo at Night

Video: Calle Crisologo at Night

In Vigan, there are no skyscrapers but centuries-old structures and ancestral houses with windows made of thinly polished capiz shells, cobbled stone streets, wide plazas and ancient cathedral and belfry. There are no taxis around but horse-drawn carriages called "Kalesa".

Riding a Kalesa, I moved around Vigan and marveled at the grandeur of the old world royal city. I felt as if I was transported back in time 200 years earlier.

I found the following points of interest in the city of Vigan. These are must-see sites:

• Vigan Cathedral/St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral. The seat of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia. Burial place of the great Ilocano poet Leona Florentino. It also houses the replica of the Miraculous Santo Cristo Milagroso (the original being in Sinait, Ilocos Sur).
• Archbishop's Residence. Located next to the Vigan Cathedral, The Archbishop's Palace of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia is the oldest continually inhabited Archbishop's residence in the Philippines, with the building itself dating to the 16th century. It was completed in 1793 after a span of 7 years. It features sliding capiz windows and cut-out decorations with floral motifs. It has a back entrance that leads to the nearby Govantes Dike, which was once a docking port for water craft. The palace has a collection of priceless ecclesiastical artifacts and relics from other Ilocos churches.
• Father Jose Burgos' Residence. Located almost behind the Provincial Capitol. The birthplace of Father Jose Burgos, one of the three martyred Filipino priests at Bagumbayan (GOMBURZA). It also houses Ilocano artifacts and ethnic arts of the Tinggians.
• Plaza Burgos. Dedicated to the memory of Father Jose Burgos. Located beside the Vigan Cathedral. Depending on the weather, the streets surrounding it (except for the street adjacent to the Empanadaan) is closed off to motorized traffic every Saturday and Sunday to allow people to walk the streets freely.
• Vigan Empanadaan. A reserved location where visitors can sample Vigan's famous empanada; as well as sinanglao (traditional hotpot made of beef innards). Located at the eastern part of Plaza Burgos.
• Baluarte. A zoo located in Salindeg where visitors can see a variety of animals (including tigers and ostriches). It is also a popular venue for special events such as seminars and conferences. The owner of Baluarte is former Ilocos Sur Governor Chavit Singson.
• Pagburnayan. A barangay at the southwestern end of Liberation Boulevard in Vigan, where the famous Ilocano jar called burnay, used for storing locally made vinegar, local wine (called basi), and fish sauce (bagoong); and as decorative ware, is produced. Tourists can see these factories making the burnay using pre-historic methods of production, using carabaos (water buffalos) to knead the clay, and foot-powered potter's wheels to turn the clay into burnay jars.
• Pagpartian. Where the great conquistador Juan de Salcedo landed when he arrived in Vigan through the Mestizo River. Also the site of the city slaughterhouse, built during the Spanish Era.
• Hidden Garden. Located in Bulala (a barrio known for its making of bricks, pots, and other objects made of clay), it is a wonderland of greenery, with a mini-snack bar nestled somewhere in the middle.
• Quezon Avenue. The business center of Vigan.
• Vigan Public Market. Where visitors can purchase delicacies like Vigan Longanisa (native pork sausages) and bagnet (deep-fried crispy pork).
• Plaza Salcedo. Dedicated to the memory of the great conquistador Juan de Salcedo. It is also the site of Gabriela Silang's public hanging in 1763. Located in front of the Vigan Cathedral.
• Vigan Dancing Fountain. Located at at the Plaza Salcedo Lagoon, this Korean-engineered attraction is the first of its kind in the country, and rivals the Bellagio Water Fountains in Las Vegas, Nevada.
• Vigan Heritage Village. Also known as the Mestizo District, it is what Vigan City is known for—streets lined with Spanish Era ancestral houses (with ancient tile roofs, massive hardwood floorings, balustrades and azoteas in varying Spanish, Mexican, and Chinese architectural styles) and cobble-stoned streets, which led to Vigan's inscription in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Tourists can buy souvenirs or even ride a calesa (horse-drawn buggy). The Heritage Village mostly covers two streets: Plaridel Street and (mostly) Mena Crisologo Street.
• Syquia Mansion. The Vigan residence of Elpidio Quirino, 6th President of the Philippines.
• Crisologo Museum. The residence of the Crisologo family in Vigan converted into a museum. It houses the memorabilia of the Crisologos and original furnishings of a typical Vigan ancestral house.
• Quema House. The residence of the Quema family, considered by sociologist Fernando Zialcita as most representative of 18th-century Philippine architectural style.
• Mindoro Beach. The only seaside location in the city, just adjacent to the Vigan International Airport.
• Simbaan A Bassit. This cemetery chapel has a Bell-gable design, the only one of its kind in the Ilocos Region. The chapel's name is an Ilocano term meaning "small church."

I had a chance to celebrate Halloween at Vigan during my visit. The "Raniag Festival" is an annual celebration of Halloween at the city.

Raniag Parade at Calle Crisologo

Raniag Parade at Calle Crisologo

I enjoyed the party with the colorful floats parading along Calle Crisologo and then culminated by flying a lantern at the Plaza de Salcedo.

VIGAN For New 7 Wonders Cities of the World

Vigan recently was nominated as one of the new 7 Wonders Cities of the World. There were 7 Cities from the Philippines nominated but only Vigan made it to the final round. Visit Vigan For New 7 Wonders Cities FB. Vote for Vigan as one of the new 7 Wonder Cities of the World.

Vigan UNESCO World Heritage City.

Background: The City of Vigan (Ilokano: Ciudad ti Bigan) is a fourth class city in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. It is the capital of the Province of Ilocos Sur. The city is located on the western coast of the large island of Luzon, facing the South China Sea. According to the 2010 Philippines census, it has a population of 49,747 people.

It is a World Heritage Site in that it is one of the few Hispanic towns left in the Philippines where its structures remained intact, and is well known for its cobblestone streets, and a unique architecture that fuses Philippine and Oriental building designs and construction, with colonial European architecture.

Former Philippine president Elpidio Quirino, the sixth president of the Philippines, was born in Vigan, at the current location of the Provincial Jail (his father was a warden); and resided in the Syquia Mansion (Wikipedia).

From Vigan, I explored the neighboring towns of Bantay, San Vicente and Sta. Catalina.

BANTAY

Riding a Kalesa, I explored the Bantay old church and Belfry. The Belfry of Bantay could be the most photographed Belfry in the Philippines, and for some, is one of the oldest standing Belfries in the country.

Bantay Church and Belfry, Ilocos Sur

Bantay Belfry

Church Interior

Just like other old Belfries of Ilocos, Bantay Belfry is located several meters away from the main church building and standing on an elevated ground. I went up the Belfry and saw the ancient bells made of copper still in placed.

SAN VICENTE

From Bantay, I returned to Vigan and then took a tricycle ride from Plaza Salcedo and asked the driver to bring me to San Vicente.

San Vicente Church, Ilocos Sur

I took a tricycle and asked the driver to bring me to San Vicente plaza centro. San Vicente is around three kilometers away from the City of Vigan.

Before arriving at the plaza, I was welcomed on my way with old structures both residential and government buildings at the side of the highway. The "Asilo de San Vicente" still stands and at the opposite of the road facing the Asilo is the Town hall, also an old building and recently painted.

At the plaza, I had immediate noticed the impressive facade of the San Vicente church. I was lucky that the church was open at that time.

San Vicente is also known as a local furniture town in Ilocos Sur. This town is known as a good producer of wooden furnitures made of Narra wood.

The present church is said to had been built in 1795 and dedicated to St. Vincent Ferrer. According to the locals, miracles are attributed to the parish’s patron saint attracting pilgrims from far and near.

As described in the town's webpage, "The church facade has two layers of columns divided by ornate architraves. The convoluted cornices in the church’s top section add beauty to the structure. Octagonal columns top with mini-domes rise from the base on both sides of the church facade. The ornate wooden pulpit is still preserved. The parish was established in 1795 and the feast day of St. Vincent Ferrer is celebrated on April 5."

I personally admire the artistry of San Vicente church. It is definitely a Baroque church with massive buttresses built at the side of the church. The church motif in yellow color. There are two bell towers situated at both sides of the facade.

Asilo de San Vicente

I love the pulpit which, according to the locals, is still the original one. In fact, whenever I visit an old church, I would always look for the pulpit. The pulpit is a sign that the church was constructed during the Spanish period. Modern churches no longer incorporate a pulpit.

I enjoyed walking around the plaza and nearby places marveling at the old charm of the ancient buildings preserved and still being used at San Vicente.

STA. CATALINA

From San Vicente, I took a tricycle from the Plaza and asked the driver to drive me to Sta. Catalina church.

Sta Catalina Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: Santa Catalina is a fifth class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the latest 2010 census, it has a population of 13,597 people. With an area of 968 hectares (2,390 acres) it is the smallest municipality in the province and the only municipality in Ilocos Sur which has an urban status for all its barangays based on National Statistical Coordination Board (NSCB).

Old Bell

The feast of the town is celebrated every 25th day of November to celebrate the feast day of Saint Catherine of Alexandria (town's patron saint) (Wikipedia).

Church Interior

Sta Catalina church according to the official website of the town, was built during the 17th century, it has baroque architecture and antique images of saints and a big "campana"- a 15th century vintage bell made of copper and gold which was brought by the Spaniards in the 15th century (Sta Catalina Ilocos Sur).

SINAIT

From Sta. Catalina, I went back to Vigan City and then took a bus at the drive-in bound for Laoag City. I alighted at the last town of Ilocos Sur in the north - the town of Sinait.

Sinait Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: Sinait is a third class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 25,427 people. Because of its main commodity, garlic, Sinait is also known as the Garlic Center of the North.

Sinait houses the Sanctuary of the Miraculous Statue of the Black Nazarene (El Santo Cristo Milagroso), fondly called by its residents as "Apo Lakay," and a treasure of Ilocandia. History traces the life-sized statue to Nagasaki, Japan. It was sent floating in the sea by missionaries operating in secret in Japan (for fear of persecution during the Tokugawa Regime). It was found by local fishermen in the shores of Barangay Dadalaquiten, on the boundary between Sinait and nearby Badoc, in the year 1620.

Fishermen from Badoc tried moving the box, but were unable to do so. Only fishermen from Sinait were able to move the box, which contains the Statue of the Black Nazarene. The fishermen from Badoc, however, were able to move the Statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary (La Virgen Milagrosa) that came with it--which was, in turn, unable to be moved by the fishermen of Sinait. They took the statues to their respective towns, hence becoming their patron saints.

In 1656, with a spreading devotion to the Santo Cristo Milagroso due to its miraculous powers, the Black Crucifix was taken to the capital town of Vigan, since an epidemic was raging there and through the devotion of the faithful, many got cured. Because of this, it is considered as an intercessor of all kinds of affliction and sickness. In 1660 because of the growing veneration to the image, the faithful begun the construction of a permanent edifice to house it. It took the people of Sinait eight years to construct the church with funds provides by the Spanish Audiencia. Today the landing site of Apo Lakay still exists in Barangay Dadalaquiten, and is a place of pilgrimage for devotees (Wikipedia).

CABUGAO

From Sinait, I traveled back south to the next town - Cabugao to see the old church there.

Cabugao Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: St. Mark the Evangelist Church was built from 1695-1696 by Father Andres Canalejo. Many reinforcements were done to the church's structure after a lot of destructions. It has a baroque facade divided into two levels with a semicircular arched main entrance held by paired doric columns and blind segmented windows on the first level (WikiPilipinas).

SAN JUAN

From Cabugao, I moved to next town down south - San Juan.

San Juan Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: San Juan (formerly Lapog) is a third class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 25,199 people. Because it produces most of the goods made of buri leaf in the province, it is sometimes called the Buri Capital of Ilocos Sur.

The town of Lapog was established in 1772. The name of the municipality has gone through a series of changes. The early settlers and occupants called it "Lapo", short for "Lapo-Lapo", a tall grass which grew everywhere in the area. In the year 1772, Don Tomas Aquino, the first local leader, initiated the organization of the scattered communities into one, calling the place "Lapog", a derivative of local vernacular "Lap-Lapog" which means unirrigated land. For 189 years, "Lapog" remained in the records as the official name of the town until June 18, 1961, Republic Act No. 3386 was enacted and it was renamed to San Juan. Since most of the inhabitants were of the belief that religious names bring peace, happiness, and prosperity, the town was renamed "San Juan", after the name of its patron saint, Saint John the Baptist.

It was stricken by all sorts of plagues and epidemics (like the smallpox epidemics of 1808 and 1918-19, locust infestation in 1903, and destruction of ricefields by worms called "arabas" in 1905). Bessang Pass, just south of the poblacion, was constructed in 1874. Americans destroyed their town hall in 1903. But despite these misfortunes, San Juan progressed into a prosperous community (Wikipedia).

MAGSINGAL

From Sanjuan, I visited the town of Magsingal and explored the old church and its Belfry located outside the church plaza and situated along the main highway.

Magsingal Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: One of the most beautiful churches that you can see in Ilocos Sur is the San Guillermo de Aquitania Church in Magsingal. On July 31, 2001, the San Guillermo de Aquitania was one of the Philippine colonial churches declared by the National Museum as a national cultural treasure.

Massive Buttresses

The National Commission for Culture and the Arts had identified and selected it as one of 26 Spanish Colonial Era churches to be under its conservation program.

Magsingal Church Belfry

Younger than its counterpart in Laoag City by approximately 247 years, San Guillermo de Aquitania Church was built by the Augustinian Recollects in 1827. Like other Ilocos churches, it is supported by imposing buttresses. The church’s retablo is regarded as the most important examples of Baroque-influence art in the Ilocandia. Like all other bell towers in the Ilocos Region, the Magsingal belfry was built far from the Church of San Guillermo de Aquitania. It was erected on February 16, 1732 (Legendharry).

STO. DOMINGO

From Magsingal, I took a bus bound for Vigan and alighted at the next town - Sto. Domingo.

Sto. Domingo Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: Santo Domingo is a third class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 27,596 people. The name of the municipality came from its old moniker, "Paggappuan ti Santol ti Domingo," an Ilocano term meaning "The source of the Santol sold every Sunday." Santol (Sandoricum koetjape) is the name of the tree bearing round, yellowish fruits growing in abundance in the municipality, notably in Barangay Pussuac.

Side Entrance

During the Spanish era, an enlisted man of the Spanish Civil Guard looked for the source of the santol being sold in the markets of Ciudad Fernandina (now Vigan City) on Sundays during the months of June to August. To do so, he asked for a leave of absence from his platoon leader to trace the source of the fruits. With his Ilocano guide, he searched the lands north of Villa Fernandina. He found nothing in the neighboring towns of Bantay, Santa Catalina, San Vicente, and Bantaoay (now San Ildefonso). He finally found lots of santol-bearing trees in a place north of Bantaoay now called Barangay Pus-uac. He has found the "Paggappuan ti Santol ti Domingo." The town was named Santo Domingo on account of this feat.

Church Interior

Don Pablo Arguero was claimed to be the founder of the municipality on May 12, 1742, with Father Tomas Millan as the first parish priest. Father Millan laid the foundation of the belfry, where the great Filipino hero Diego Silang once worked as a boy.

Main Altar

In 2010, the University of Northern Philippines opened a campus in Quimmarayan. It houses the university's agricultural, fishery and research courses; and the Environmental Research and Training Center (Wikipedia).

Visit Sto. Domingo Officia Town Website.

SAN ILDEFONSO

From Sto. Domingo, I hopped to the neighboring town of San Ildefonso.

San Ildefonso Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: San Ildefonso is a fifth class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 7,075 people.

The town is rich in rice, corn, sugarcane, malunggay, katuday & fruit-bearing trees such as star apple, chico, mango, camachile & atis. Its main product is basi, a wine made from fermented sugarcane juice; as well as cane vinegar.

Massive Brick Walls

They also make nutritious ice cream made up of vegetables in Barangay Bungro, and is being popularized by the town's local government. On September 28, 2007, San Ildefonso officials (Governor Deogracias Victor Savellano and Rep. Ronald Singson) commemorated the Basi Revolt.

Recently, the Sangguniang Bayan of San Ildefonso approved a resolution declaring September 16 as a non-working holiday and named the old road in Barangay Gongogong as Ambaristo street in honor of Pedro Ambaristo, leader of the Basi Revolt. Mayor Christian Purisima enrolled basi as their entry into the “One Town; One Product” (OTOP) program of Governor Savellano (Wikipedia).

SANTA

From San Ildefonso, I traveled further south to the town of Santa.

Santa Church, Ilocos Sur

Church Interior

Background: Santa is a municipality in the central part of Ilocos Sur province in the Philippines. Due to Santa's natural setting (the ridge of Mount Tetas de Santa in the east; the winding Abra River and delta in the north and NW of Santa; and the South China Sea to the west), then Governor-General of the Philippines Theodore Roosevelt, Jr. on his visit in 1925 exclaimed: “The mountain in the east, the winding roping river in the north, and the immense sea in the west make Santa a poetic town (Wikipedia).

NARVACAN

From Santa, I hopped to the town of Narvacan.

Narvacan Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: Narvacan is a second class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it had a population of 42,803 people.Narvacan was discovered by a Spanish expeditionary force sent from Vigan by the military officer and navigator, Captain Juan de Salcedo. The Spanish expeditionary force was shipwrecked along the town's coast. When they were being rescued by the natives, the Spaniards asked the natives what was the name of their place. The resident's leader replied in an Ilocano dialect by asking the Spaniards "Nalbakan?" (Are you shipwrecked?). The Spaniards thought this to be the answer to their question, and from then on the place was referred to as Narvacan.

Salcedo befriended the small tribe of indigenous valley peoples that resided in the area while Spanish families established a township in 1576. As part of the modern township, a Roman Catholic parish was established by the Augustinian religious order on 25 April 1587. The Narvacan parish would become one of the first Roman Catholic parishes in present-day Ilocos Sur.

Church Altar

Narvacan was organized under the traditions of the royal government of Spain. The Habsburg royal family served as the heads of state which in turn appointed Santiago de Vera as President of the Royal Audiencia – governor over the region in which Narvacan was situated. In 1589, Governor Vera appointed Nicolas de Figueroa as the first Encomendero de Narvacan – principal administrator of the town and its neighbors in the encomienda system. His role eventually evolved into the office of alcalde (Wikipedia).

Visit Narvacan Website.

STA. MARIA

From Narvacan, I traveled to the town of Sta. Maria. This town is well know as the location of another UNESCO World Heritage church - Sta. Maria Church.

Sta. Maria Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: The Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion Church in Santa Maria (also known as Sta. Maria Church) has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993 as part of the Baroque Churches of the Philippines collection of four Spanish-era churches.

Unlike other town churches in the Philippines, which conform to the Spanish tradition of sitting them on the central plaza, the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion in Santa Maria with its convento are on a hill surrounded by a defensive wall.

Also unusual are the sitting of the convento parallel to the facade of the church and that of the separate bell tower (characteristic of Philippine-Hispanic architecture) at the midpoint of the nave wall. This was dictated by the hill on which it is located The brick church follows the standard Philippine layout, with a monumental facade masking a straight roof-line covering a long rectangular building. It is alleged to be built on a solid raft as a precaution against earthquake damage. The walls are devoid of ornament but have delicately carved side entrances and strong buttresses.

The mission at Santa Maria, founded in 1765 on a narrow, flat plain between the sea and the central mountain range of Luzon, was one of the most successful Augustinian houses in the Philippines. It served as the base for the Christianization of the northern parts of the archipelago.

The church façade has three openings and one blind niche, with rose-tinted stonework, Moorish floral, and foliate designs around the recesses. The recessed arched entrance is flanked by a pair of rectangular pier framed by heavy circular buttresses that end up in urn-like finials. The svelte octagonal bell tower nearby seems a stark contrast to the church’s simple and massive structure. The church measures 75.15 m. long (90 varas) and 14.19 m. wide (17 varas).

"The story goes that in the beginning the statue of the Virgin was enthroned in the old church. This was then located at the foot of the present church, on the place where the East Elementary School is now situated. But this statue often disappeared and made its peregrination to a guava tree on the knoll where the church now stands. For this reason a new chapel was built on this site in 1810 together with the tower; its bells arrived the next year." (Churches in Ilokandia Ilocos Sur-La Union p. 285) (Wikipedia).

Old Convent

From the town plaza, I hired a tricycle and asked the driver to bring me to Pinsal Falls. While marveling at the grandeur of Sta. Maria church, one of the 4 Baroque Churches inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site, I learned from a local that there is a waterfalls nearby. They call it "Pinsal Falls".

I also learned that the Pinsal falls has a legend. A friendly local said that at the top of the waterfalls is where a giant foot step of the mythical Ilocano giant "Angalo" can be found. The giant left his footprint when he went off searching for his wife "Aran".

Pinsal Falls, Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur

So I asked the local in Ilocano "kasano ngarud ti mapan sadiay waterfalls?" - how can I get to the waterfalls? The local told me to get a tricycle at the plaza and ask the driver to bring me to Pinsal falls.

So I went to the plaza as instructed and then get a tricycle with the help of the tourism officer there.

They said that the falls is about 7 kilometers away from the plaza and it is located at the foot of a mountain in Barangay Baballasioan.

On board a tricycle, I set-off to see the falls. I was impressed to see that the road passing through wide-green rice fields is well-maintained and cemented.

After 35 minutes of tricycle ride, I saw the massive falls from afar and it is awesome.

According to some reviews, Pinsal Falls could be the largest in the entire Ilocos Region measuring around 85 meters high with two large streams flowing into two different basins. The water is cool and clear.

At the top of the falls can be found a number of natural pools. The biggest is said to be the footprint of the mythical Ilocano giant Angalo. There is also a hot spring that can boil an egg in about 15 minutes. It reminded me of Gunung Tangkuban Parahu in Indonesia.

Pinsal falls is a perfect place for picnic, swimming, filming and picture taking for those who love landscapes.

Truly, the Ilocos provinces are blessed not just with World Heritage sites but also with many natural treasures!!

See: More Photos

SAN ESTEBAN

From Sta. Maria, I traveled to San Esteban.

San Esteban Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: San Esteban is a fifth class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 8,072 people.

The Spaniards named the pueblo (the equivalent of a municipality in present-day terms) San Esteban (formerly known as Cabagbagototan) because they have received reports of a vagabond named Iban having been stoned to death and beheaded by hostile natives in the place called "Naglawlawayan," which is an early place of worship by the natives, and currently the site of the municipal cemetery. "Iban" is the Ilocano equivalent of "Stephen," hence the pueblo being named San Esteban.

San Esteban was founded by Agustinian friars in 1625, but was always attached to Nueva Coveta (present-day Burgos) and to the municipality of Santiago until 1911. It was once a visita of Narvacan because of a shortage of ministers (Wikipedia).

SANTIAGO

From San Esteban, the next town down south is the town of Santiago.

Santiago Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: Santiago is a fourth class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the 2010 census, it had a population of 17,958 people. Santiago Cove is dubbed as the "Boracay of Ilocos Sur" because of its white sands.

Massive Buttress and Walls

Before the Spanish Conquest of the Philippines, Moro raiders were in control, so one of the tasks of the Spanish was to pacify and clear the country of these pirates. Coastal communities (Northern Luzon, and, thus, Ilocos) were prone to piratical attacks. For these, watchtowers were erected all over the Ilocos coast.

Church Interior

The Spanish started patrols of sea lanes, stopping these pirates for a while, only for them to resurface in 1772. But in the place now known as Santiago, as the Spanish engaged the pirates, all church bells ringing and trumpets sounded (to signal their attacks), the Augustinians stationed in the place held a statue of Santiago (Saint James) facing the sea and with many natives praying the rosary for safety and victory. The Moros fled, never to return, thus sparing the pueblo.

Main Altar

The place was since then named Santiago. It was once a visita of Narvacan due to the lack of ministers at the time (Wikipedia).

Visit Santiago Website.

CANDON

From Santiago, I went to Candon. The church is along the highway, so I didn't have to ask a tricycle or a jeepney driver to bring me to the church.

Candon Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: St. John of Sahagun was built in 1695 by Father Pedro Bravo. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1707 but was rebuilt in 1709. The Church has a baroque-style facade.

Thick Walls Made of Adobe and Brick

The four-storey octagonal belltower has an alternating open and blind apertures, a balustrade and is topped by a campanille (WikiPilipinas).

STA. LUCIA

From Candon, I traveled down south to the town of Sta. Lucia. The church is along the highway beside a basketball court.

Sta Lucia Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: Santa Lucia is a third class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the latest 2010 census, it has a population of 24,981 people (Wikipedia).

Church Impressive Interior

St. Lucy the Martyr Church was built by Father Juan Pascula Barreda and Father Manuel Arguelles in 1887. Its dome and ceiling was repaired and the surroundings were reinforced by Father Venusto Mata. its bell tower was damaged by an earthquake but was repaired eventually.

Dome

Main Altar

It's one of the most beautiful churches in Ilocos. Its interior has a painted ceiling, pulpit and a carved retablo.

The Church has an image of the Dark Virgin of Santa Lucia, the patroness of those with failing eyesight (WikiPilipinas).

STA CRUZ

From Sta. Lucia, I explored the old church of Sta. Cruz.

Sta Cruz Church, Ilocos Sur

Background: Santa Cruz is a first class municipality in the province of Ilocos Sur, Philippines. According to the latest 2010 census, it has a population of 37,911 people.

Church Interior

The place now known as Santa Cruz was the site where Captain Juan de Salcedo landed to get provisions, especially water, on his way to pacify the North. As soon as they came ashore, his men went immediately to the top of the highest sand dune and planted a big wooden cross to signify the place has been conquered by the white men (like what they did later in Santa Catalina).

Church Altar

This cross is visible to mariners passing by, often describing the place as "Santa Cruz." The cross may have vanished, but the name Santa Cruz stuck, especially with natives who became Christians (Wikipedia).

TAGUDIN

The end of my run trip to Ilocos at the town of Tagudin. Tagudin is the last town of Ilocos Sur in the south.

Tagudin Church Facade

On a hot windy Saturday, I wandered at a very peaceful and orderly town called Tagudin, in southern Ilocos.

After seeing an old painting collection at the monastery of San Agustin in Intramuros showing the church of Tagudin, also dedicated to San Agustin, I started to day-dream of exploring the church someday.

But aside from the old church, I had another mission of seeing the first sundials built in the Philippines circa 1800s.

From the City of Vigan, I took a van bound south. It took me two hours and 18 minutes travel on a passenger van from Bantay drive-in to the town of Tagudin. I alighted at the town proper and then I followed the direction on the signage from the main highway towards the old church and the sundials.

Church Interior

The old church, old convent and the sundials are located about a hundred meters away from the highway. Since I wanted to explore and took photos of whatever that interests me, I walked from the highway towards the town plaza.

Main Altar

The church is sandwiched between two school campuses. On the right side is the old San Agustin convent now converted into San Agustin School (SAS). Though converted into a school, the infrastructure still the old convent. The windows are still made of thinly polished capiz shells.

fronting the church is a wide plaza with century-old trees and on the left side few meters away from the church is the old belfry.

Massive Walls and Buttresses

The church architecture as elaborated at the Tagudin official website (Tagudin Website). "A very clear Baroque style pervades the facade of the church. The main entrance is elliptically arched with a recessed entrance door fully decorated with Augustinians symbols and crowned by a triangular pediment of Baroque influence. The main entrance is flanked on both sides by large and sensuously rounded, paired columns with double capitals; one is decorated with eggs dart carving which are Greek origin; and the other one is Doric-like stylized Augustinians emblem which is followed on the next on the higher level by a circular opening with a simply decorated on the outer edge and topped by the statued niche of the impediments panel.

Two large, segmented blind windows on the side a panel of the first level arranges in such a way that balance are achieved with the rest of the openings. The impediment has broken lines, very common features of the Baroque. Paired finials grace the slopping curvilinear from of the facade. A simple contrast between mass and open voids creates a peaceful scene enlivened by the decoration of the capitals and panels."

Unlike other old churches, I find the interior of the Tagudin church simple. The old pulpit is at the left side facing the altar. The windows are made of stained colored glass.

Old Pulpit

The town's tourism website (Tagudin Website) stated on the construction of the present church: "According to an official report prepared by the 24 cabezas de barangay of Tagudin and to the Governor of Ilocos Sur in 1829, documents suggests that Farther Gutierez built the church while while he was parish priest in Bangar and assistant parish priest of the mission of Tagudin. It also states the “he was prior of Tagudin” the wall were finish in about two years. Father Francisco Hernandez continued the work in 1816, and when he died in 1821, the church was almost finished. Jorde however, states, I believe erroneously that he constructed the church, a fundamentals. According to previous cited document, the interior, the vault and the presbytery had not yet been completed as of 1829. made of stone and bricks, the church measures 40 brazas(66.80 meter) long and 8 ½ brazas(14.19 meters) wide.

Fr. Juan Sorolla, prior of Tagudin in 1832, completed the construction of the church. He also built convent now use as a school building of Saint Augustine’s School run by the Immaculate Heart of Mary sisters. Fr. Juan Sorolla installed two sundials one at the back of the church in 1841, the other in front of the town hall in 1845, the marker however, says “1848” which is mistake because Fr. Sorolla left Tagudin in 1845.

Fr. Mariano Ortiz had some restoration work made in 1880. Fr. Geronimo Rubio built the slender belfry located apart from the church in 1881. the church has been restored several times since, but its old style has always been maintained. Sevilla had always been attached to Tagudin as a visita."

Belfry

The church belfry, just like other old churches of Ilocos was constructed few meters away from the main church at the left side facing the church facade.

I was told by the locals that the belfry was repaired by the town's miners in 1938.

Sundial

The very first sundials that was built in the Philippines can be found in this town. Two sundials constructed by Father Juan Sorrolla in 1841, according to Tagundin website. Both can be found at the back of the church and in front of the town hall, few meters away from the church.

Sundial in Front of the Town Hall

It was a dream fulfilled for me to see the Tagudin church finally and the sundials. It was a very nice and relaxing experience to sit under a huge tree on a sunny and windy day, facing the church facade and marveling at its grandeur. I have to mention as well that the place is so peaceful and orderly.

Explore the Ilocos Provinces

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Dios ti agngina, Ilocos Sur!!

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