Northern Adventure

Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte 

June 11 - 14, 2022

"Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not." – Ralph Waldo Emerson

For more than two years, I had been confined within the walls of our home and the corporate place due to the Pandemic. It has been my usual routine every quarter of the year to move around places of interests like historical sites or simply walk through a trail at the middle of a jungle to unwind and remind myself that there is life outside the walls of the corporate world.

My sister and I had been planning this trip for a month. After confirming that transportation had finally been resumed and Pagudgud, one of our favorite places to wander, had finally re-opened to local tourists, we had finalized the date of the trip and so the adventure that we had long been dreaming finally came to reality.

June 10: Travel from Manila to Pagudpud (Barangay SAUD)

Pagudpud is in the Province of Northern Ilocos (Ilocos Norte). It is approximately 562 kilometers away from our home in Manila and a 10H drive. We decided to take the 9:30PM trip from Sampaloc Manila via Florida Bus.

On-board Florida Bus bound for Pagudpud

June 11: Arrival at Pagudpud

We reached Pagudpud and alighted at the bus terminal 08:41AM. After making an early reservation at the bus station for our trip going back to Manila, we took a tricycle to bring us to our accommodation located inside the public beach area in Barangay Saud. 

Operator and Driver

We met Manong Jerry Galat at the bus station and asked him to bring us to Polaris Beach House.

On-board Manong Jerry's Tricycle

Getting excited, we squeezed ourselves inside the tricycle and then drove to Barangay Saud. We reached the Beach House at 08:58AM, however, our room at that time is still getting cleaned. While waiting, we decided to have a breakfast and also made an arrangement with Manong Jerry to come and pick us up the following day for the tour. We had finally checked-in at 09:30AM after waiting for several minutes for our room to be prepared. We were supposed to check-in at 12:00NN, however, the reception officer was so kind to let us check-in early.

We chose a basic accommodation since most of the time, we will be out to enjoy the beach and the surroundings. I must say that we enjoyed the accommodation - spacious enough for the 3 of us, clean bathroom and strong aircon. Staying beside our room was Luisa's sister and her family. They came from Tuguegarao City in Cagayan for a vacation.

After setting up my things, I immediately went out to smell the sea and feel the wide blue clear sky.

June 12: Pagudpud (North & South) Tour

We started our adventure at 08:00AM. Gem and I took the tricycle with our driver and tour guide, Manong Jerry, while Luisa took the van together with her sister and family. We went out on a convoy. Manong Jerry was leading the way to the tourist sites.

Pagudpud Shell

We had a quick stop of the Pagudpud shell monument. This is actually the entrance to Pagudpud town proper.

Pagudpud Welcome Arc

From the concrete shell monument, we moved to the Pagudpud Welcome Arc. This Arc welcomes tourists from Laoag City to Pagudpud. This is one of the well known tourist destinations in the area. After having a quick photo op, we moved to the souvenir shops to see somethings. I'm glad to see that tourism is slowly getting back to life after the series of lock downs brought by the Pandemic.

Wind Mills in Bangui

From the Welcome Arc, we moved to another tourist site - the Wind Mills in Bangui. The Wind Mills in Bangui are the first in Southeast Asia. Today, there are more Wind Farms in the area. Several Wind Mills located in Burgos and nearby areas can be easily seen from Bangui.

Bangui Wind Farm

 

Kapurpurawan Rock Formation in Burgos

From Bangui, we moved to Burgos to see the Kapurpurawan Rock formation. Kapurpurawan in the Ilocano language means "white". We had to transfer to another tricycle in Burgos to move us to the rock formation. New ordinance states that tricycle in Burgos will take tourists bound for Kapurpurawan and Light House. Outsiders had to wait at the registration area and so did Manong Jerry.

From the registration area, we moved to the jump-off point and then started walking towards the rock formation. The road leading to the jump-off point is now completely cemented. It used to be a rough road. We started walking on the stairs from the jump-off point and then passed-through a short trail covered with vines and then we reached the exposed area. One can also hire a horse to ride from the jump-off point going to the viewing deck.

Eleven years ago, I was able to set my foot on the rock formation itself. Presently, getting into the actual rock formation is already prohibited to preserve the rock formation. A viewing has been built where tourists can have a nice photo of the site.

 

Kapurpurawan Rock Formation View from Viewing Deck

While tourists are now prevented from setting their foot on the rock formation, there is a smaller version of the rock formation at the back of the hill near the Kapurpurawan Rockies. This is an open area.

Open Area Kapurpurawan Rockies

From the Rockies, we trekked back to the jump-off point, had a tasty Empanada snack and a refreshing sweet Buko juice.s

Light House in Burgos

On-board the same tricycle from Kapurpurawan, we moved to the famous Light House. This infrastructure was built in the 1800s and still operational. Eleven years ago, I had the chance to climb up the winding rusty steel stairs leading to the top where the actual light bulb is located.

Our tricycle driver is a well trained and a multitasking talented person - he is a tricycle driver, a tourist guide and a photographer. We were surprised to learn several tricks from him using the "PANORAMA" feature of the mobile phone.

 

Panorama of the Light House Museum

Downstairs, we had to follow a quick and easy instruction from him moving from one point to another while he maneuvers the camera on Panorama mode. We were surprised to see the results.

Panorama shot from the ground floor

Kabigan Falls

Completing our South tour at the light house, we moved up North. Kabigan Falls being our first destination. We reached the registration area at 1:20PM and from there, we proceeded to the jump-off point. I was expecting and told Gem and Luisa that there will be a lengthy trek towards the falls, however, I was surprised to see the that road leading to the jump-off point is now cemented.

From the jump-off point, we walked 20 minutes and then presto, we reached the Kabigan Falls. Clear and cool water, we enjoyed refreshing ourselves.

Kabigan Falls

Lunch

We had a late lunch along the way towards Patapat Viaduct. We had Sinanglaw, Fish Soup and Buko.

Lunch at a restaurant near Patapat Viaduct

Patapat Viaduct

After having lunch, we moved to the Famous Patapat Viaduct, a bridge snaking between the mountains of Cordillera and Sea joining the Ilocos and Cagayan Valley Regions.

Bantay Abot

We descended through a concrete stairs and passed through a narrow passage that leads to the Bantay Abot. The word "abot" in the Ilocano language means "a whole", thus, a mountain with a whole.

Hannah's Resort/Blue Lagoon

The final site of our North tour is the white beach at Barangay Balaoi where the popularly known Hannah's resort is located. I felt sad to see that Hannah's resort seemed to have closed with some of buildings no longer maintained well due to the lock down caused by the Pandemic. I'm hoping that Hannah's resort would be able to recover soon. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the white beach.

June 13: Travel from Pagudpud to Laoag to Paoay

We travelled to Laoag City on-board ordinary bus from Pagudpud. We left Pagudpud at 08:45AM. We reached the bus terminal in Laoag City at 10:14AM and decided to have a quick breakfast a nearby Chowking restaurant.

We took a tricycle from the restaurant going to the terminal for Jeepneys bound for Paoay. We alighted at Paoay town center passing through the magnificent Paoay Church and the municipal hall towards our accommodation. We stayed at Dona Emilia hotel.

From the Hotel, we took a tricycle going to the nearest Sand Dunes spot to try the 4x4 ride and the Sand Boarding. We were told that there are 3 Sand Dunes spots in Ilocos Norte. Suba being the most famous of the three while Culili point is the nearest to us as it is located in Paoay. We decided to go to Culili point.

We registered at the Culili point for a 4x4 ride where our exciting adventure started.

San Dunes 4x4 & Sand Boarding Registration Area

 

 

We took 4x4 truck #18, Green colored Mitsubishi Pajero model converted to 4x4. We on-boarded the truck at the back, standing and holding on to a steel bar. Highlights of the 4x4 ride include travel along the slopping sand dunes and a sharp descent from the top of a sandy hill, providing a feeling of excitement similar to riding a roller coaster. Another highlight of the adventure is the Sand Boarding.

Sand Boarding

Malacanang of the North

From the sand dunes, we moved to the Malacanang of the North which is now a museum. The place is well maintained. The water sport at the Paoay lake located at the back of the Malacanang is a the newest attraction in the area.

 

Paoay Church

Before going back to our accommodation, we visited the Majestic Paoay Church and I am so happy to see that both exterior and interior of the church had been renovated. This is a UNESCO World Heritage church together with 3 more century old churches collectively known as the Baroque Churches of the Philippines.

Newly Renovated Interior

Newly Renovated Exterior

Dinner

To complete our day, we had a sumptuous dinner at SMOKE restaurant nearby the Paoay Church. We had BAGNET as our main course.

 

June 14: Travel from Paoay to Laoag to Pagudpud to Manila

We travelled back to Laoag City the following day and then took an ordinary bus bound for Pagudpud. We spent the day enjoying the beach at Pagudpud before heading back to Manila at 07:00PM on-board Florida Bus that day. We reached Manila at 04:30AM the following day, June 15, 2022.

DIOS TI AGNGINA!!

-o0o-

The Paoay Church (San Agustin), A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Paoay, Ilocos Norte
03 November 2013

Paoay Church taken during Spanish - American War
Photo Source: http://freepages.military.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~smokymtnman/spanish/saw4.jpg

Aside from Vigan, the Paoay church, also known as San Agustin church, is another site that I cannot afford to miss whenever I travel to the Ilocos provinces. It is one of the four Baroque Churches in the Philippines inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Summary/Historical Context of UNESCO, The explorer Ferdinand Magellan arrived in the Philippines in 1521. His name was Ferdinand Magellan, known for his voyage around the world. He claimed the islands of the Philippines as a Spanish colony. Missionary priests came to spread the Catholic faith. 

Many churches were built throughout the country. Four of them were inscribed as World Heritage in 1993. The churches have survived several earthquakes and wars, and are known as "Earthquake Baroque" due to their strong quake-resistant structures. 

This pyramid-like building is the Church of San Agustin in Paoay in the Northern Luzon. Construction started in 1694. It incorporates many architectural features from Latin America, which was also colonized by Spain at the time. Typical Latin American motifs such as the sun are used as decoration. 

As The Philippines are affected by earthquakes, the buildings have some unique features to cope. These 2.5 meter-thick supporting buttresses were built around the church as protection. from the impact of an earthquake. The material used to make the wall is also unique. Pieces of coral were used along with regular brick for construction. Coral is said to be twice as strong as brick. 
This church has been hit by two giant earthquakes in the last 300 years but owing to its quake-resistant structure has remained intact."Architectural techniques brought from Mexico and Spain bloomed in the Philippines, making great buildings like this church. By combining different techniques this church stood strong in the earthquake of Intensity 7." 

Facade and Bell Tower of Paoay Church

According to UNESCO, this church is the most massive church of all churches in the Philippines with 24 massive buttresses measuring nearly 3-meters thick built around the church 2 meters thick walls as protection.

The materials used to build the walls and buttresses are made of coral stones cut into square blocks, bricks and adobe stones and then glued together using sugar cane and egg white.

Massive Church Facade

24 S-shape Massive Buttresses nearly 3 meters thick

According to Wikipedia, the church facade also exudes Javanese architecture reminiscent of Borobudur of Java.

Javanese Architecture

Building of the present church started in 1694, according to historians. This church has been hit by 2 giant earthquakes in the last 300 years but due to its quake resistive structure, it remained intact to date.

Third layer of the church facade bearing the old seal of Spain

Furthermore, UNESCO said that this church is the best example of a Baroque church in the Philippines.

Watch Baroque Churches of the Philippines, according to UNESCO.

Just like the developments in the City of Vigan, there are many developments at the UNESCO World Heritage site of Paoay. 

Facing the facade of the church at the right side of the Plaza, there is a new building, which was currently being constructed by the time of visit, that will house the tourism office of Paoay, Ilocos Norte.

Future Tourism Office at Paoay, Ilocos Norte

The left side of the church has been developed and turned into a beautiful garden called "Jardin de San Agustin".

Jardin de San Agustin

The parish residence is a new building constructed at least 20 meters away from the church to provide a buffer zone as required by UNESCO.

Inside the church, the altar was improved with the statue of San Agustin at the main altar and the altar table now dressed in gold-color with intricate designs.

 

More and more visitors are coming to Paoay to see the church and other tourist spots at the area.

To get a view of the church facade at night, I stayed late at the plaza and waited for the lamp posts and wall lamps to light up and even at night, the grandeur of the church can't be denied.

Paoay Church at night

Truly, Paoay Pumaypayapay (Kumakaway)!

Rediscovering Paoay

23 December 2015

I reached Paoay at 2010H from Laoag City. At that time, the church facade and side walls had been illuminated with warm light.

After fixing my things at my accommodation, I immediately moved to the plaza with my camera and tripod. Taking photos at night of old structures nicely lit is one of my favorite photo moments.

 

A lighted scroll mark at the plaza ground was lighted making it very visible at dark.

The building at the right side of the plaza (facing the church) that was under construction when I last visited the place is now a souvenir shop and a food court.

On the 23rd of December, I moved around the Paoay church and explored the old convent that used to be in ruins and currently being restored at the time. The PGIN is transforming the building ruins into another tourist site in Paoay.

By the time of my visit, half portion of the old building had already been covered with a metal roof supported by metal columns and trusses. I was so happy to learn that the old convent ruins will be resurrected soon and will no longer be just a ruin.

 

I left Paoay at 1700H and traveled back to Laoag City and then later traveled to my hometown in the province of Isabela.

Paoay Church Retrofitting

17 February 2012

The Paoay Church also know as San Agustin Church in Paoay Ilocos Norte is one of the only 4 ancient catholic churches in the Philippines listed in the UNESCO World Heritage list. 

Church Facade with Scaffolding

This church, according to the experts, was constructed in 1694 and made of massive coral blocks. Standing through war and earthquake for more than 300 years, the church finally require renovation. 

According to Paoay officials, the renovation will restore the designs on the massive walls of the church. For the past hundreds of years since the colonial period, for many times many churches and old buildings have been destroyed by either natural calamities and wars and for many times, the Ilocoanos also rebuilt or restored them. This is a testimony of how the Ilocanos love and value their heritage. 

I can't wait to see the church fully renovated and marvel at its grandeur.

-o0o-